Jul 10, 2020 | DIY Pest Control, Pest Control
A household pest is any undesired animal that has a history of living, invading, causing damage to, eating food from, acting as a disease vector for, or causing any other harm to a human habitat. While most are considered a nuisance, household pests become dangerous when they pose a risk to health, property, or lifestyle. Household pests aren’t just limited to insects; they also include arachnids, rodents, and wildlife.
While household pests can be found year-round, some are more common in the summer months. Here are 8 of the most common summer household pests and how you can prevent them.
Mosquitoes
Mosquito season peaks in the summer months. The warm weather and humid environments accelerate their life cycle so they are able to reproduce in large numbers during this time. You are most likely to see mosquitoes when you have standing water on your property. Mosquitoes lay eggs in standing water and the hot, humid climate in summer is ideal for both breeding and to find food sources. Mosquitoes are dangerous to humans as they carry pathogens that can cause serious diseases like Zika and West Nile virus.
Mosquitoes can be prevented by:
- Avoiding the outdoors at dawn and dusk
- Wearing clothing that covers arms and legs
- Eliminating areas of standing water
- Repair or replace torn window screens
- Apply insect repellent
Ants
Ants hibernate in the winter and come out in full force over the summer. They have to forage in the summer months to feed their growing colonies and to build up their reserves for fall. Ants are usually seen indoors in the summer because they are searching for food and water as these can become scarce for them.
Ants can be prevented by:
- Keeping your home clean, especially the kitchen
- Not leaving pet food and water bowls outdoors
- Keeping trees and shrubs trimmed away from the house
- Sealing cracks and holes in your home’s exterior
Fleas
Fleas are prevalent in the summer months, although they can be found on pets year-round. Pets will indicate the presence of fleas by scratching and biting when they come in from outdoors.
Fleas can be prevented by:
- Treating pets for fleas with preventative medication
- Vacuuming frequently, especially in areas that pets frequent, and disposing of the bag immediately
- Treating your yard with outdoor flea spray
- Washing pet bedding and toys weekly in hot water
Ticks
Ticks are problematic to humans and pets because they spread diseases like Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain spotted fever. Tick bites increase in the summer because people and animals are spending more time outside. The US is also seeing an increase in ticks because of the combination of mild winters and an increased population of deer and rodents which are known to carry ticks.
Ticks can be prevented by:
- Using tick preventatives on pets
- Wearing long sleeves and closed toe shoes when outdoors
- Avoid areas with high grass or woods when possible
- Eliminating debris and wood piles from your property
- Wearing insect repellent
- Checking yourself and your pets for ticks immediately after coming in from outdoors
- Removing any ticks found immediately
Termites
Termite swarming season is in the spring but these newly established colonies grow exponentially in the summer. Termites can go long periods of time undetected, causing significant damage to your home. It is important to keep an eye out for signs of termites so you can catch them early.
Termites can be prevented by:
- Eliminating wood to soil contact around foundations
- Creating a 4 inch barrier between wood mulch and your home
- Keeping plants a few feet away from your home
- Making sure storm drains point away from foundations
- Fixing leaks and eliminating any other sources of excess moisture
- Having an annual termite inspection performed
Grasshoppers
While most people view grasshoppers as just a nuisance pest, they can be devastating to gardeners and farmers. Grasshoppers can devour an entire field of crops in just a few days. Grasshoppers surge in large numbers in the summer months and are most prevalent in dry, hot summers. Grasshoppers can also cause damage to non-farmers as these are one of the only pests that can chew through screens.
Grasshoppers can be prevented by:
- Plant flowers that deter grasshoppers (lilac, crepe myrtle, verbena, sage, juniper)
- Plant vegetables that don’t attract grasshoppers (squash, peas, tomatoes)
- Introduce predators by making your garden attractive to birds
- Use floating row covers on crops and plants
- Consider natural products that kill grasshoppers without harming other animals or plants (Nosema locustae or Beauveria bassiana)
Flies
Flies invade your home in the summer months to escape the heat. They only reproduce during the hotter months and reproduce even more prolifically when they get indoors. Flies will stick around well into the fall months.
Flies can be prevented by:
- Keeping windows, doors, and vents sealed
- Using garbage cans with tight fitting lids
- Taking the garbage out when it is full
- Storing food in airtight containers
- Not leaving dirty dishes out
- Not leaving grass clippings in the yard
- Turning off outdoor lights at night
Stinging Insects
Stinging insects mate in the spring and their populations grow during the summer months. Hornets and yellow jackets are especially common in the summer because they have to establish new nests each year. These are usually found under decking or under piles of leaves. These stinging insects are potentially dangerous for people with allergies. Yellow jackets and bees can also get into the walls of homes, causing significant damage.
Stinging insects can be prevented by:
- Wearing shoes when outdoors
- Keeping trash cans tightly covered
- Eliminating dirt patches on your lawn
- Avoiding sweet smelling perfumes
- Don’t swat at stinging insects
Don’t let these common summer pests ruin your summer. If you have a problem with any of these pests, contact a professional pest control company who can help eliminate them safely and prevent them going forward.
You May Also Be Interested In:
Termites: How to Stop Their Damage
Keeping Cool for the Summer
Turning A Yellow Lawn Green
Fleas, Ticks, and Chiggers: What’s the Difference?
Pigeons, Sparrows, & Starlings: Nuisance Bird Control
Jun 17, 2020 | Pest Control
You’re lounging outside enjoying the peaceful outdoors when a flying pest zooms past you. You then realize it’s actually a flying ant! Don’t worry! Flying ants are actually very common, especially during seasons of high humidity. While flying ants are not a huge threat to humans, they can be a major nuisance, especially if they enter your home.
Flying ants swarm for the same reasons that termites swarm which is to reproduce and expand their colonies. These pests will swarm in late spring and the early summer when there’s bright sunlight and warm temperatures. Flying ants also prefer to swarm 3 to 5 days after a rainstorm.
While flying ants won’t cause damage to your home, they can make their way inside. It’s important to know what prevention steps to take when dealing with these pests.
- During peak swarm season, try to keep your windows and doors closed as much as possible.
- If pests have already entered your home, just vacuum them up. You will most likely find them near bright lights, light fixtures or windows.
- If you suspect these pests are inside your walls, don’t tear away any woodwork, trim, baseboards, or wall coverings; simply use your thumb to press against the wood to feel for defects.
- Don’t spray the swarms with insecticide; instead, mark areas where they are getting into your home and notify your pest control professional.
Remember, if you see them flying by outside, don’t be too alarmed. If they end up inside your home, however, it’s always best to call your local pest control company who can determine the best plan of action.
Apr 20, 2020 | Fire Ant, Pest Control
If you’ve ever noticed dirt mounds throughout your yard, you might be assuming that they are just ant mounds. But, if you look closer, certain mounds could be home to a completely difference species. Digger bee mounds could easily be confused with ant mounds, but truthfully, the two species couldn’t be more different.
Digger Bees
Digger bees are ¼ to ½ inch long, and depending on their species can be dark, shiny metallic, often with yellow, white, or rust-colored markings. What’s unique about digger bees from other bees is they tend to build their nest about 6 inches deep under the ground. The adult female digger bees live in these mounds underground while the male digger bees dig to the surface of the soil creating a pathway for the females to emerge during springtime.
Digger bee mounds can usually be found in areas of your yard where the grass is sparse, such as a dry or shady area. They typically build their nests close together, creating a cluster of several small mounds.
Fire Ants
Fire ants can vary in different sizes but have a dark red body color that can range from reddish brown to reddish black, depending on their species. Fire ants do have a stinger and when used can give off a painful sting.
Fire ant mounds are usually raised where you can easily spot them in your yard. The mounds are also dome-shaped and can range from two- to four-square feet in size. Fire ant colonies can be found to have an average of 80,000 worker ants. They typically like to avoid darkness and shade; therefore, they will build their mounds in sunny areas of yards, rather than in shaded areas.
From above, you can see just how different these two species are and how different their habitat is. While digger bees like to build their mounds underground and in shaded areas, the fire ant can be seen building theirs visibly and in sunny areas of the yard. If you believe you have either of these pests in your yard, it’s best to contact a professional pest control company who can help identify and provide treatment plans.
Jan 24, 2020 | Pest Control
Ants are the #1 nuisance pest in America. They are one of the most challenging pests to control, along with bed bugs, because their colonies can number in the 1000s. Ants are considered commercial pests because they like to live close to people and eat the same things that we do. Ants can be seasonal pests or a year-round problem depending on the species. They will often enter our homes in the warmer months of the year in search of water and food. Most species, including fire ants and odorous house ants, will build their nests outdoors and come inside in search of food that they will collect and take back to their colonies. Other species like carpenter ants will actually make their way into your home and build their nests indoors. Ants are often found near food sources, moisture, and in hidden areas where they have protection and concealment such as wall voids, under floors, behind window frames, and under appliances. Ants in the bathroom and ants in the kitchen are the two most common scenarios when these pests make their way into your home, although they can be found in other rooms, as well.
Regardless of the species, when ants become a problem in your home it is often necessary to use a professional pest control company to help get them under control. Here are some important aspects to any successful ant control program:
1. Proper Identification
One of the most important components to any ant control program is to properly identify the species of ant you are dealing with. Different species have different behaviors, prefer different environments, and have different diets so treatment will vary greatly between them. It is important to know where to find them and how to treat them to ensure success in eliminating and controlling them.
2. Eliminate Food Sources
One of the main reasons ants come into your home is in search of food to take back to their colony. Eliminating things that attract them can help keep them from taking over your home. Clean up any food crumbs from kitchen floors and countertops and wipe them down frequently. Clean your appliances regularly. Empty your trash routinely and wipe the cans down. Clean outdoor grills and remove crumbs from tables, decks, and patios after each use. Keep foods, including pet food, in sealed containers. Place a bay leaf in canisters of dry food (such as flour) as the scent repels ants and other pantry pests. Rinse any empty containers before placing them in recycling bins. Get rid of any overripe fruit as this will attract ants, as well.
3. Eliminate Moisture
Ants need moisture to survive. Eliminating or reducing the moisture in your home can help prevent ants from coming inside. Repair any leaks around pipes and in your roof. Check gutters to make sure they are not clogged and ensure downspouts are directing rainwater away from foundations. Consider installing gutter guards to help prevent clogs. Thoroughly clean bathrooms with disinfectant cleaners and make sure shampoo, conditioner, and soap bottles are closed tightly and don’t have any leaks.
4. Eliminate Points of Entry
In order to get into your home, ants have to have a way inside. It is important to identify where they are gaining entry into your home to successfully control and eliminate them. Carefully inspect the exterior of your home and seal any holes, gaps, and cracks especially around areas where pipes and wires enter your home. Trim back shrubs and tree branches so they are not touching the sides or roof of your home. Keep mulch and timber at least 2 feet from your foundation. Move debris such as firewood, rock piles, boards, etc away from your home. Remove any tree stumps, fallen tree branches and logs from your yard. Repair any holes in window and door screens and replace weatherstripping.
As always, if you suspect you have an ant problem, contact a professional ant control company who can help you properly identify the species of ant you have and set you up with a thorough and comprehensive treatment and control plan.
Dec 24, 2019 | Georgia Blogs, Pest Control
By Anna V., Editorial Lead — Pest Education · Last updated: May 2026
If you’ve come downstairs to find a column of ants trailing across your counter at 6 AM, you’re in the most common pest situation in the Southeast. At Northwest, ants are the #1 pest call we run year-round across Georgia, Alabama, Tennessee, and South Carolina. The good news: kitchen ant problems are usually solvable, often without professional help if you catch them early. The catch: the wrong DIY approach makes them worse.
Here’s the full playbook on how to get rid of ants in your kitchen, including which species you’re probably dealing with, the DIY methods that actually work (and the ones that just spread the problem), and when it’s time to call in backup.
Common Ant Species Found in Southeast Kitchens
Five species cover almost every kitchen ant call in Georgia and Alabama. Identification matters because two of these (carpenter ants and argentine ants) need different treatment than the others.
Five species cover almost every kitchen ant call in Southeast homes. Carpenter ants are the only ones that damage wood.
Sugar Ants (Tapinoma sessile and similar)
- Size: Very small (1/16 inch), dark brown to black.
- Behavior: Follow trails to sweet foods, especially syrup, honey, fruit, and sugary spills. Active year-round in heated homes.
- Damage potential: Nuisance only. No structural damage.
Odorous House Ants (Tapinoma sessile)
- Size: Small (1/8 inch), uniformly dark brown.
- Behavior: Release a strong rotten-coconut smell when crushed (the most reliable identification marker). Form large trails between nests and food sources. Will eat both sweet and protein-based foods.
- Damage potential: Nuisance only.
Argentine Ants (Linepithema humile)
- Size: Small (1/10 inch), light brown to medium brown.
- Behavior: Form enormous interconnected supercolonies that can span entire neighborhoods. They’re the hardest kitchen ant to fully eliminate because killing one trail doesn’t affect the broader colony. Major presence in coastal and urban Georgia.
- Damage potential: Nuisance only, but persistent.
Pavement Ants (Tetramorium immigrans)
- Size: Small (1/8 inch), dark brown to black.
- Behavior: Nest under sidewalks, driveways, slab foundations, and patios. Forage indoors for grease, sweets, and pet food. Often enter through gaps where slab meets wall.
- Damage potential: Nuisance only.
Carpenter Ants (Camponotus species)
- Size: Large (1/4 to 1/2 inch), usually black, sometimes black-and-red.
- Behavior: Excavate galleries in wood for nesting. Don’t eat wood, but their nesting activity causes structural damage similar to (and often confused with) termites. Most active at night.
- Damage potential: HIGH. Carpenter ants in or near the kitchen warrant immediate professional inspection. They often indicate moisture damage in wall framing, sub-floor, or window frames. For prevention overlap with termite issues, see our termite prevention guide.
Why Ants Invade Kitchens
The kitchen is the most attractive room in your house to ants for three simple reasons:
- Food. Crumbs, spills, open containers, fruit, pet food bowls, and trash. Even microscopic residues are enough to recruit a colony.
- Water. Sinks, leaky pipes under cabinets, condensation around dishwashers, and pet water bowls all attract foraging ants.
- Entry points. Plumbing gaps under sinks, gaps between cabinets and walls, window sills, and door thresholds all provide easy access from outdoor nesting areas.
Once a scout ant finds food, it lays down a pheromone trail back to the colony. Within hours, you can have a hundred workers on the same trail. This is why “I just saw one ant” often becomes “the counter is covered in ants” by the next morning.
Southeast Seasonal Patterns
- Spring (March-May): Colonies wake up and send out scouts. Peak kitchen ant activity begins.
- Summer (June-August): Peak foraging across all species. Argentine ants and odorous house ants are at their most aggressive.
- Fall (September-November): Colonies stockpile food before winter. Trails often shift to protein and grease sources.
- Winter (December-February): Most species dormant outdoors but heated homes can support indoor populations year-round, especially in the deep South.
Signs of an Ant Infestation
Look for:
- Visible trails along counters, baseboards, or wall edges.
- Repeated sightings near the same food or water source (sink, pet bowl, sugar jar).
- Small piles of dirt or debris near baseboards or window sills (nest excavation).
- Discarded wings near windows or doors after a rain (winged reproductive ants leaving the nest).
- For carpenter ants specifically: small piles of sawdust-like debris (“frass”) near wood structures.
How to Get Rid of Ants in Your Kitchen: DIY Methods That Work
Three categories of work, in order of priority. Skipping straight to spray-and-pray almost always backfires.
Step 1: Cut Off the Food Source
Until you starve the trail, no amount of treatment will hold:
- Wipe down counters with a vinegar-water solution (50/50) immediately after spotting a trail. This breaks the pheromone trail.
- Move all open food to sealed containers or the refrigerator.
- Empty trash daily and rinse the can.
- Clean spills under the toaster, behind the coffee maker, and under the refrigerator.
- Pick up pet food bowls between feedings (a major argentine ant attractant).
- Fix any leaking pipes under the sink.
Step 2: Use Bait, Not Spray
This is the most important rule in kitchen ant control: do not spray visible ants with repellent insecticides. It kills the visible workers but warns the colony, which then splits and spreads. Bait works because the worker carries the active ingredient back to the colony and the queen.
- Borax-and-sugar bait. Mix 1 tablespoon of borax with 3 tablespoons of sugar and enough water to make a syrup. Place small drops on cardboard or in bottle caps near the trail. Workers carry it back to the colony. Effective within 3 to 7 days.
- Commercial gel baits. Terro Liquid Ant Baits and Advion gel are well-reviewed for kitchen ants. Place per package directions near trails and entry points.
- Patience. You’ll see MORE ants on the bait initially, which is the desired outcome. Resist the urge to spray. Trail activity drops sharply once the colony is poisoned.
Step 3: Natural Repellents and Trail Disruption
Use these alongside bait, not instead of it:
- Vinegar spray. 50/50 white vinegar and water breaks pheromone trails and discourages re-entry.
- Peppermint or tea tree oil spray. 10 drops per cup of water sprayed at entry points (window sills, door thresholds, under-sink areas).
- Diatomaceous earth (food-grade). Light dusting along baseboards and under sinks. Damages the ants’ exoskeletons. Reapply after vacuuming.
- Cinnamon or coffee grounds. Both are mild repellents that work for short-term trail disruption.
Preventing Future Ant Problems
Long-term ant prevention is mostly about removing the conditions that attract them in the first place.
Prevention is straightforward and covers most species:
- Seal entry points. Caulk gaps around plumbing under the sink, around window frames, and where cabinets meet walls.
- Food storage discipline. Airtight containers for pantry items, sealed bags for snacks, fruit in the refrigerator if ants are active.
- Moisture control. Fix leaks fast. Wipe down sinks at night. Don’t leave standing water in the dish drainer.
- Outdoor maintenance. Trim shrubs and tree branches back from the house (ants use them as bridges). Keep mulch and firewood 20+ feet from the foundation. Repair damaged caulking around exterior windows and doors.
- Year-round vigilance. Most Southeast homes need ongoing prevention rather than one-time treatment. A monthly check of high-risk areas (under sinks, behind appliances) catches new activity early.
When to Call Professional Ant Control
Call Northwest if:
- You’ve spotted carpenter ants (large black ants, especially with sawdust-like frass nearby).
- DIY methods haven’t reduced activity within 2 to 3 weeks.
- You’re dealing with argentine ant supercolonies that keep returning despite consistent bait use.
- Trails are coming from multiple entry points (suggests a large or complex nest network).
- You’re seeing other pest activity simultaneously, which often indicates broader exclusion gaps.
Professional ant control combines species identification, targeted baits matched to the species’ food preferences, perimeter treatment to address outdoor nests, and structural exclusion. UGA Extension’s household pest management guide is the best free reference for the region.
(Ants coming back no matter what you do? Schedule a free Northwest inspection and we’ll identify the species, find the nest, and treat at the source.)
Frequently Asked Questions About Kitchen Ants
How do I identify the type of ant in my kitchen?
Look at size, color, smell when crushed, and what they’re going after. Tiny dark ants on sweets are usually sugar ants. Slightly larger ants that smell like rotten coconut when crushed are odorous house ants. Light brown ants in massive trails are argentine ants. Larger black ants (1/4 inch or more), especially near wood damage or with sawdust nearby, are carpenter ants and warrant professional inspection.
Can ants cause damage to my home?
Most kitchen ants (sugar, odorous house, argentine, pavement) are nuisance pests only. They don’t damage structures or spread serious disease. Carpenter ants are the exception. They excavate wood for nesting and can cause significant structural damage over time, especially in moisture-compromised framing or window frames. Carpenter ants always warrant professional evaluation.
How long does it take to eliminate an ant infestation?
Small bait-based eliminations: typically 7 to 14 days for visible trail activity to drop. Argentine ant supercolonies and well-established carpenter ant nests: 4 to 8 weeks of consistent treatment, often with professional help. The biggest mistake homeowners make is spraying repellents that scatter the colony, which can extend the timeline significantly.
Are natural remedies effective?
Vinegar spray, peppermint oil, and diatomaceous earth are effective for trail disruption and prevention. They’re less effective for eliminating an established colony. The most effective DIY approach combines borax-and-sugar bait (or commercial gel baits) for elimination plus natural repellents for ongoing prevention. Bait without prevention usually means the ants come back.
Why won’t the ants stop coming back?
Three usual reasons: (1) the colony nest is outdoors and continues sending new scouts, (2) you sprayed repellents that caused the colony to split into multiple smaller nests, or (3) you’re dealing with argentine ants, which form supercolonies that span entire neighborhoods. Persistent return cases typically need professional perimeter treatment plus structural exclusion.
Professional ant control combines species ID, source treatment, and exclusion so the colony doesn’t reroute.
Ready for a Professional Kitchen Ant Inspection?
If kitchen ants are a recurring problem, you’ve spotted carpenter ants, or DIY methods haven’t worked, Northwest’s team can handle species identification, source treatment, and exclusion in one visit. Most kitchen ant issues clear up faster than homeowners expect once the nest is properly targeted.
About the Author
Anna V., Editorial Lead — Pest Education leads pest education content for Northwest Exterminating, working with senior technicians and service center managers across our Georgia, Alabama, Tennessee, and South Carolina service areas to translate field expertise into homeowner-friendly guides. The focus: accurate, regionally-specific answers to the pest questions Southeast homeowners are actually searching for.
