Jan 15, 2021 | Wildlife
While some people consider pigeons a minor nuisance, they can actually be harmful to humans. Pigeons are the most common nuisance bird and are also responsible for the worst public health concerns caused by birds. Pigeons are capable of spreading more than 60 pathogens to humans, mostly through their droppings. Besides the obvious means of transmission by handling pigeon feces, what many don’t realize is pigeon droppings that are left on cars, windowsills, and even the street can dry into a powder that can be blown into the air and inhaled. The most common diseases spread by pigeons are E. coli, histoplasmosis, and salmonellosis.
Pigeons are also capable of damaging and destroying your property. Nests can interfere with the functioning of air conditioning units and electrical elements. Pigeon droppings can also accumulate, causing surfaces to become slippery. Their feces can also deface and deteriorate buildings and other structures.
Pigeons prefer to nest in small, flat areas that are off the ground (e.g. ledges, air conditioning units, pipes, and window sills). They eat a varied diet, consuming anything from grains and livestock feed to discarded food scraps and manure. They must have water daily to survive.
Pigeons adapt easily to their environments, including those that are manmade. They will travel up to 5 miles between their nesting and roosting sites, making it very difficult to get an established flock to move. Their homing capabilities allow them to easily find their way back to their original nesting sites.
Get rid of nuisance pigeons with these bird prevention tips:
- Discourage people from feeding these birds in public areas.
- Clean up any spilled grain or feed daily.
- Make food and water sources as inaccessible as possible.
- Block building openings such as lofts, vents, eaves, window sills, and steeples) with wood, metal, glass, masonry, wire mesh, plastic or nylon.
- Change ledge angles to 45 degrees or more as this discourages roosting.
- Place netting over ornamental architecture.
- Screen the underside of rafters with netting or wire mesh screening.
- Install a permanent mechanical bird repellent like bird spikes to help eliminate roosting.
If you suspect you have a problem with pigeons or any other nuisance pests, contact a professional pest control company for a free evaluation.
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Jun 19, 2020 | Wildlife
While some birds are beneficial to us through their production of down feathers, control of pests, control of weeds, and providing us with the opportunity for birdwatching, they can be detrimental to our homes and our health. Besides being a general nuisance, some birds can cause damage to buildings and monuments, contaminate food sources, and transmit diseases that can be serious to humans.
Three of the most common nuisance birds that can cause these issues to humans are pigeons, sparrows, and starlings. Here is a look at each of these nuisance birds, as well as some tips to prevent and exclude them.
Pigeons
Pigeons are the most common nuisance bird and are also responsible for the worst public health concerns caused by birds.
Adult pigeons are about a foot in length and weigh about 13 ounces. They are blue-grey in color with iridescent feathers on their heads and necks. Pigeons have short necks, small heads, and short legs.
Pigeons prefer to nest in small, flat areas that are off the ground (e.g. ledges, air conditioning units, pipes, and window sills). They eat a varied diet, consuming anything from grains and livestock feed to discarded food scraps and manure. They must have water daily to survive.
Pigeons can cause serious problems wherever they are. Large flocks of pigeons can be a nuisance in public places. Their feces can not only deface and deteriorate buildings and other structures but can also cause slipping hazards on stairs, sidewalks, and fire escapes. Their droppings and debris from their nests can clog downspouts and machinery. Pigeons carry numerous diseases including histoplasmosis.
Pigeons adapt easily to their environments, including those that are manmade. They will travel up to 5 miles between their nesting and roosting sites, making it very difficult to get an established flock to move. Their homing capabilities allow them to easily find their way back to their original nesting sites.
Sparrows
House sparrows are not actually true sparrows; they actually belong to a family called weaver finches. They are stocky, small birds about 5 to 6 inches in length and weighing about 1 ounce. They have conical bills with brown grey feathers. Males have a black throat and white crown while females have a white throat and a dull eye stripe.
Sparrows build extremely messy nests out of anything they can find (string, twigs, paper, grass). They prefer to make their nests in covered, elevated areas like warehouses, airport hangars, and stadiums.
Sparrows primarily eat grain but have also been known to eat fruit, seeds, insects, and food scraps. They have become extremely dependent on humans for both food and shelter. They nest, roost, and feed in large groups within 1 to 2 miles of each other.
Sparrows can be difficult to control because of their ability to rapidly reproduce. They are extremely aggressive and will often drive out other desirable bird species from the area. When they nest in electrical areas they can cause electrical shorts and fires. When they congregate in poultry and hog farms they cause potential contamination threats. Sparrows have been associated with over 25 diseases and ectoparasites.
Starlings
Starlings are an introduced species that cause problems in both urban and rural areas. Adult starlings are about 8 inches in length and weigh about 2-1/2 to 3-1/2 ounces. They have short tails and long bills. In the winter, starlings have dark bills and iridescent coats speckled with white dots. In the summer, starlings have yellow bills with duller coats that are mostly purple and green in color and are less speckled.
Starlings travel in flocks that can number into the thousands. They nest and feed in a variety of areas. When they nest in urban areas they tend to frequent trees, exhaust vents, marquees, ledges, lighted signs, hollow lampposts, billboards, soffits, and dryer and stove vents. In rural areas they tend to nest in farm building ledges and tree cavities.
Starlings feed on a variety of things depending on what season it is and what food sources are available. They are known to eat seeds, fruit, food scraps, insects, fruit, and vegetables.
Starlings can be problematic because of their intense vocalization, especially when their flocks grow to such large numbers. Their fecal accumulation can also be problematic because of the sheer volume. Starlings are very aggressive and can drive out other bird species. Their feces can deface and deteriorate buildings and other structures; can cause slipping hazards; can contaminate livestock feed; and can kill trees. They leave nesting materials behind that can clog machinery, cause drainage problems, and clutter structures. These blocked vents can also lead to moisture buildup, odor issues, and potential fire risks. They are known to carry serious diseases like histoplasmosis.
Each of these nuisance birds can be hard to control or eliminate once their flock is established. Prevention and elimination is key to helping control these bird populations. Here are some bird prevention and exclusion tips you can use to help control these problematic pests.
- Discourage people from feeding these birds in public areas.
- Clean up any spilled grain or feed daily.
- Make food and water sources as inaccessible as possible.
- Block building openings such as lofts, vents, eaves, window sills, and steeples) with wood, metal, glass, masonry, wire mesh, plastic or nylon.
- Change ledge angles to 45 degrees or more as this discourages roosting.
- Place netting over ornamental architecture.
- Screen the underside of rafters with netting or wire mesh screening.
- Install a permanent mechanical bird repellent like bird spikes to help eliminate roosting.
If you have a nuisance bird problem, contact a professional pest control company who can provide you with a customized inspection and treatment plan for your situation.
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Apr 17, 2020 | Alabama Blogs, DIY, DIY Wildlife Prevention, Georgia Blogs, Wildlife
By Anna V., Editorial Lead — Pest Education · Last updated: May 2026
If birds have taken over your roofline, started nesting in your dryer vent, or covered your back deck in droppings, you’re probably searching for a bird deterrent that actually works. At Northwest, we get bird control calls year-round across our Georgia and Alabama service area, but they spike sharply from late March through July when nesting season hits its peak. The honest version most homeowners don’t hear: most DIY bird deterrents work briefly, then stop working as birds adapt. The few that work long-term are usually the unglamorous ones (sealed vents, physical barriers, removed food sources), not the gimmicky owl decoys and ultrasonic gadgets sold on Amazon.
Here are the five DIY bird deterrents with the strongest track record in Southeast homes, what to expect from each, and the gimmicks worth skipping entirely.
Visual deterrents work for a while, then stop. Rotation is the difference between weeks and months of effectiveness.
Why Bird Deterrents Matter
Bird activity around a Southeast home isn’t just an annoyance. Persistent bird problems lead to:
- Droppings. Bird droppings are acidic and stain paint, siding, decking, and concrete. Cleanup is constant, and accumulated droppings can damage surfaces permanently.
- Nesting in vents and gutters. Dryer vents, bathroom vents, gable vents, and gutter corners are favorite nesting spots. Nests block airflow, create fire risk (especially in dryer vents), and trap moisture.
- Noise. Pigeons, sparrows, and starlings start their day before dawn. Nesting season runs March through August in Georgia and Alabama.
- Structural damage. Roof damage from nesting materials, clogged gutters that overflow and rot fascia boards, and acid damage to paint from droppings.
- Health and sanitation concerns. Bird droppings can carry pathogens including histoplasmosis and salmonella. Most healthy adults aren’t at significant risk, but people with respiratory issues should avoid disturbing dried droppings without proper protection.
The species causing most of the bird-control calls we run are house sparrows, European starlings, and rock pigeons. All three are non-native and not protected under federal migratory bird law, which matters when you start considering removal options (more on that below).
Do DIY Bird Deterrents Really Work?
Yes and no. Most DIY bird deterrents produce short-term results, then lose effectiveness as birds figure out they’re not actually threats. The deterrents that hold up long-term are the ones that don’t depend on birds being fooled: physical barriers and habitat changes.
Two important caveats before you start any DIY bird control:
Federal law protects most native bird species. The Migratory Bird Treaty Act of 1918 protects more than 1,000 native species, and it’s illegal to disturb their active nests, eggs, or young without specific permits. The three most common nuisance species in the Southeast (house sparrows, European starlings, rock pigeons) are non-native and not protected, but several species you may encounter (swallows, woodpeckers, robins, mockingbirds, blue jays) are protected. If you’re not sure what species you’re dealing with, pause and identify before doing anything.
Active nests with eggs or young require special handling. Even for non-protected species, the humane and recommended approach is to wait until the nest is empty before removing it. Active nest removal during breeding season is one of the situations where calling a professional is often the right move.
5 Effective DIY Bird Deterrents
Physical barriers and habitat changes do most of the heavy lifting. The other three are short-term tools.
1. Visual Deterrents (Reflective + Predator Decoys)
Reflective bird tape, hanging spinners, and predator decoys (plastic owls, hawks) all work on the same principle: scare birds with movement, light flashes, or the appearance of a predator. They work briefly, especially for new arrivals. The catch is habituation. Within two to four weeks, birds figure out the owl doesn’t move and the tape doesn’t actually threaten them.
Best practice: rotate visual deterrents weekly. Move the owl decoy to a new spot, replace reflective tape, swap the spinner for a different design. The rotation is what extends effectiveness from “a few weeks” to “all season.” Static visual deterrents left in one place stop working fast.
2. Physical Barriers (Spikes + Netting)
The single most effective long-term bird deterrent is making the landing spot physically unusable. Bird spikes installed along ledges, gutter edges, and rooflines prevent landing entirely. Bird netting stretched across eaves, soffit openings, or under solar panels blocks nesting access without harming birds.
Where physical barriers shine in Southeast homes:
- Gutter edges (favorite pigeon and starling landing spots)
- Eave overhangs (common sparrow nesting locations)
- Solar panel undersides (a big issue in newer Georgia construction)
- HVAC equipment housings and mini-split heads
- Window AC unit tops
- Gable vents and attic vents (with proper mesh, not just bird netting)
Bird spikes and netting installed correctly can last 10+ years and require near-zero maintenance. The catch: installation matters. Poor installation creates gaps birds exploit, and once a bird gets through, the whole barrier loses credibility.
3. Sound Deterrents (Ultrasonic + Distress Calls)
Ultrasonic devices and recorded distress calls (audible to birds, played on speakers) can disrupt new arrivals and slow nesting attempts. The research on ultrasonic devices specifically is mixed. Most independent testing shows limited effectiveness for birds, despite aggressive marketing claims. Audible distress calls work better but have an obvious downside in residential settings: they’re loud, and your neighbors will notice.
Sound deterrents are most useful in open commercial settings (parking lots, warehouse rooflines, agricultural buildings). They’re rarely the right choice for a single-family home in a Georgia or Alabama neighborhood.
4. Habitat Modification (the Most Overlooked Method)
The most underrated bird deterrent strategy isn’t a product. It’s removing the things drawing birds to your property in the first place. Birds keep showing up because the conditions are good. Change the conditions and most of them move on.
- Eliminate food sources. Bird feeders that overflow, pet food bowls left outside, accessible trash, fallen fruit under pecan or fig trees, breadcrumbs after outdoor meals. Any of these will pull birds in and keep them returning.
- Cut off water access. Standing water in birdbaths, clogged gutters that pool water, irrigation puddles, and uncovered pools all draw birds. Mosquitoes too, which then draws other pests.
- Trim trees and shrubs back from the house. A three-foot clear zone around the foundation and roofline reduces nesting opportunities and travel routes onto the house.
- Clean gutters regularly. A clogged gutter with debris is a five-star nesting site for sparrows and starlings.
- Seal entry points. Gaps in soffits, broken or missing vent covers, open chimneys without caps. The same exclusion work that keeps rodents out keeps birds out too.
Habitat modification is the only DIY method that addresses why birds came in the first place rather than just shooing them away. It’s also the only one that compounds: each year you maintain it, the cumulative effect grows.
5. Scent Repellents (Honest Effectiveness)
Peppermint oil, cinnamon, methyl anthranilate (the active compound in commercial bird repellents like grape extract sprays), and other scent-based products show modest, short-term effects in field testing. The catch: outdoor scents fade within days, wash out with rain, and require constant reapplication. They’re not a standalone solution.
Where scent repellents can earn their place: as a supplement to physical barriers in spots where you can’t install spikes or netting. Otherwise, treat them as the lowest-tier option.
The yards we treat for repeat bird problems almost always have an exposed food source, a water source, or open nesting cavities.
What Doesn’t Work (Bird Deterrent Myths to Skip)
A few “classic” bird deterrent ideas circulate widely but don’t hold up.
- Fake owls left in one place. Birds figure them out in days. Without rotation, they’re inert.
- Random DIY sprays. Vinegar, dish soap, garlic water, cayenne pepper, and similar mixes don’t have research support for bird control. They wash out fast and damage plants in the meantime.
- Wind chimes alone. Birds adapt to consistent sounds within a week. Wind chimes are pleasant. They’re not deterrents.
- Single-method approaches. Any one DIY deterrent works briefly. Combining two or three (e.g., physical barriers + habitat modification + rotating visual deterrents) is where homeowners see lasting results.
Humane Bird Exclusion: The Long-Term Approach
The most effective bird control isn’t a product. It’s exclusion, which means making your property physically unable to host birds in the spots they want to nest. Exclusion combines:
- Sealing every gap in vents, soffits, and rooflines with appropriate mesh or hardware cloth
- Installing bird spikes on landing surfaces
- Adding bird netting under solar panels and over open eaves
- Capping chimneys with bird-proof caps
- Modifying the surrounding habitat to remove food, water, and shelter
Exclusion done right typically lasts 10 years or more with minimal maintenance. It’s also the only approach that fully complies with the Migratory Bird Treaty Act, because it prevents nesting before it starts rather than removing active nests later.
When to Call a Professional for Bird Control
DIY bird deterrents handle small, early-stage bird problems well. Call Northwest for bird control if:
- Birds keep returning to the same spot despite your DIY efforts.
- Nests are in hard-to-reach or hazardous areas (high roofs, gable vents, solar panels).
- You’re dealing with large flocks (more than 10 birds at a time) or commercial properties.
- You suspect protected species are involved.
- An active nest needs removal mid-season.
- You want long-term exclusion done correctly the first time.
(Birds keep returning after you’ve tried DIY? Request a free Northwest bird control inspection and we’ll identify the species, find the entry points, and lay out a long-term exclusion plan.)
Bird Control in the Southeast
Birds in Georgia, Alabama, Tennessee, and South Carolina behave a little differently than in cooler parts of the country. Three regional factors increase bird pressure on Southeast homes:
- Longer nesting season. Warm spring weather arrives early and lingers into fall. House sparrows can produce three to four broods per year here, compared to two in colder regions.
- Year-round resident populations. Rock pigeons and house sparrows don’t migrate. They’re a problem every month of the year, not just in summer.
- Construction patterns. Open soffits, gable vents, and unscreened crawl space vents are common in older Atlanta, Birmingham, Savannah, and Macon homes. Each is a bird entry point.
The good news: the same exclusion approach that solves bird problems also solves rodent problems and helps with snake prevention. For more on how those pest categories connect, see our snake repellent guide on the rodent-snake-bird sealing connection. For the broader question of getting rid of birds already established on your home, see our companion guide on how to get rid of birds around your home.
Frequently Asked Questions About Bird Deterrents
What bird deterrent works best?
Physical barriers (bird spikes and netting) are the most effective long-term solution because they don’t depend on birds being fooled. Combined with habitat modification (removing food, water, and shelter), they handle most residential bird problems for years with minimal maintenance.
Are bird deterrents harmful to birds?
Most modern bird deterrents are designed to be humane and non-lethal. Bird spikes, netting, sound, scent, and visual deterrents discourage birds without injuring them. Avoid sticky gels or glue traps marketed for birds. They can trap and injure or kill birds and are illegal to use against protected species.
Do birds come back after deterrents are installed?
They can, especially if deterrents aren’t maintained or rotated. Static deterrents (a single fake owl, reflective tape that never moves) lose effectiveness within weeks. Combining multiple methods and rotating visual deterrents weekly extends results dramatically.
Are birds protected by law?
Yes, most native bird species are protected under the federal Migratory Bird Treaty Act, which makes it illegal to disturb their nests, eggs, or young without specific permits. The three most common nuisance species in the Southeast (house sparrows, European starlings, rock pigeons) are non-native and not protected. If you’re unsure what species you’re dealing with, identify the bird before removing nests.
How long does it take to get rid of birds with DIY deterrents?
If you start at the early-arrival stage (a few birds scouting, no active nests), DIY deterrents can resolve the issue in one to two weeks. If birds have already established nests, expect a longer timeline (often a full nesting season) before you can fully exclude them. Active nests of protected species cannot be removed mid-season; you’ll need to wait for the young to fledge before sealing the area.
Professional exclusion lasts years. DIY deterrents that get rotated and maintained can match it for smaller problems.
Ready to Stop the Bird Problem at the Source?
If you’ve tried a DIY bird deterrent or two and the birds keep coming back, the problem isn’t the deterrent. It’s the conditions around your home that keep drawing birds in. Northwest’s wildlife team handles the full bird-control workflow: species identification, exclusion installation, habitat assessment, and follow-up to make sure birds don’t find a new spot to set up shop.
About the Author
Anna V., Editorial Lead — Pest Education leads pest education content for Northwest Exterminating, working with senior technicians and service center managers across our Georgia, Alabama, Tennessee, and South Carolina service areas to translate field expertise into homeowner-friendly guides. The focus: accurate, regionally-specific answers to the pest questions Southeast homeowners are actually searching for.
Jul 26, 2019 | Wildlife
Most people may not consider birds when they think of pest control; bird removal does, however, fall into the category of wildlife exclusion. While typically benign to homeowners, birds can be detrimental to both homes and health. Birds can be quite noisy, especially if they build a nest in or on your home. They can cause damage to your roof, car, and property. Their nests can block stove, dryer, and fan vents causing fire hazards and rendering them useless. Their nests can also clog gutters and drains, leading to standing water and potential damage to your roof. Their droppings contain uric acid which can damage the paint on your car. Bird droppings also contain pathogens that are dangerous to humans like histoplasmosis. Bird nests can also contain other pests such as mites, parasites, and ticks that can stick around long after the birds have left the nest.
Birds have been known to build their nests in some very inconvenient places in and around homes. They are often found above doors, over garages, inside sheds, and other high-traffic areas. They can also nest in places that are dangerous to the birds themselves – on top of lawnmowers, heat pumps, etc.
While the decision to remove the bird nest may seem simple, there are Federal laws regarding bird nest removal that make it illegal to remove certain species of birds or their nests. Best practice is always to check with a wildlife control company before attempting to remove any bird nests from your home. If you have verified that the species of bird invading your property is not protected and removal of the nest is legal and necessary, here are some steps to take to ensure both proper and safe removal and/or relocation.
1. Prevention
The best way to eliminate bird nests from your property is to prevent them from building in the first place. Remove any food scraps and open trash from around your home as this invites them to feed. Make sure trash is secured tightly in containers. Place any bird feeders and birdbaths away from the home and further out in the yard. Only put out enough food for a few birds and clean up any spills regularly. Consider installing gutter guards to prevent nesting in gutters and downspouts. Vents are a common nesting place for birds so install vent covers and screens. Use perch repellents if necessary; these are rows of bird spikes installed on ledges, window sills, and around the perimeter of the roof to prevent birds from alighting on perches. You can also use visual repellents such as plastic owls, hawks, snakes, and even coyotes. If you use visual repellents, make sure to move them often as the birds will get used to them being in one place. Hang reflective bird diverters from strings on your porch also.
The best time to remove a nest is when it is still in the building stage. If you notice a bird nest already built or remove one this season, keep an eye out in the same area next season and stop it before it is fully completed.
2. Check for Activity
Always make sure a nest is inactive before removing or relocating it. Never attempt to remove or relocate a nest if there are birds or eggs present. It is best to wait until after nesting season for any removal or relocation. Eggs in a nest without signs of the parents don’t necessarily mean the nest has been abandoned. The parents may be out feeding or they may have left to allow the eggs a chance to cool down.
3. Wait For the End of Nesting Season
The best time to remove or relocate a nest is after nesting season is over. Most birds only nest once per year; however, some species will nest 4 to 5 times. The time varies with the species of bird. Without knowing the specific species of bird, it is difficult to determine the best time to remove or relocate the nest. A professional can help identify the species you are dealing with and help determine the best time to remove the nest.
4. Use Proper Precautions
Once you have positively identified the species of bird you have, confirmed it is legal to remove the nest, and have made sure the nest is inactive and no eggs are present, you can proceed with removing or relocating the nest. Bird nests can harbor other pests and residual bird droppings that can contain dangerous pathogens for humans. Make sure to wear long sleeves, long pants, latex gloves, and a respiratory mask to protect yourself. Carefully inspect the nest to make sure it is empty of eggs and birds. Spray the nest with an antibacterial spray. Once dry, remove the nest and dispose of it in a securely sealed container or exterior trash bag. Dispose of it in the trash away from the home. Clean the area where the nest was with a strong disinfectant. Remove and dispose of your gloves. Remove your clothing and wash them immediately in hot water. Wash your hands thoroughly.
5. Call A Professional
It can be difficult to determine whether or not the bird nest in or on your home is legal to remove or the best way to remove it. If you have a bird nest that is causing problems in or on your property, contact a professional wildlife exclusion company who can positively identify the species of bird you have, properly remove or dispose of the nest, and help you identify areas where nesting could be a potential issue in the future.
Request a Free Bird Control Estimate
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