Feb 21, 2020 | Pest Control
A myth is defined as a widely held but false belief or idea. While myths are often based on some semblance of the truth, more often than not they are exaggerations or misunderstanding or even outright falsehoods. There are tons of myths regarding pests and pest control, some completely outrageous and others almost believable. Here are 10 of our favorite pest control myths.
1. Bees Can Only Sting Once
You’ve heard this one before. Once a bee stings you it can’t sting you again. This is one of those myths that is partly based in the truth. Honeybees, and ONLY honeybees, can only sting once. Other varieties of bees, wasps, hornets, etc. can sting as many times as they want. So be prepared – just because you’ve been stung once doesn’t mean there aren’t more stings coming along right behind that one.
2. Bees Will Only Attack When Provoked
This is another common myth you’ve probably heard – if you don’t mess with a bee it won’t mess with you. Once again, this is not the case. Bees, wasps, hornets, yellow jackets, and other stinging insects will sting you if they feel they or their colony are being threatened. This could be something as simple as walking too close to their nest. If a nest is spotted on or near your home, remove it safely or call a professional to remove it for you.
3. Bugs Won’t Come In A Clean House
This is a big misconception in pest control. Just because your house is clean doesn’t mean you are immune to bugs and other pests. While a dirty house can make a pest stay longer, a clean house doesn’t keep them out. Bugs come into a home in search of three things: food, water, and shelter. While an unkempt house can provide more opportunity for these 3 things, a clean house can provide them, as well. What is more important is sealing any entry points that pests can use to access your home.
4. Seeing A Cockroach Means Your House Is Dirty
This myth is similar to #3. Once again, cockroaches will come into your home for 2 main reasons: food and shelter. While they may find these in more abundance in a dirty home, they can also find them in a clean home too. Once a cockroach infestation is established it can be extremely difficult to get rid of. Cockroaches can enter through an opening the size of a quarter so sealing any possible entry points is critical in preventing them.
5. Mosquitoes Only Come Out At Dawn And Dusk
This is another myth that is based in part on the truth. Some species of mosquitoes are more active at dawn and dusk but mosquitoes can be active at all hours as long as there is food available. Best practice is to utilize mosquito prevention techniques anytime you will be outdoors.
6. Bug Zappers Can Eliminate Mosquitoes
This one is blatantly false. Bug zappers use ultraviolet (UV) light to attract insects into its cage. Mosquitoes aren’t attracted to UV light at all so they won’t be anywhere near the bug zapper. Bug zappers also don’t usually have enough power to actually kill the insects it attracts so it can have a reverse effect on insect populations around your home.
7. Mice Love Cheese
We’ve all seen or heard this one, either in a story or on TV. While mice will snack on the crumbs of just about any food, cheese actually isn’t their first choice. They would prefer to snack on foods that are high in sugar like peanut butter, candy, honey, or dried fruit. In fact, chocolate or peanut butter are the best choices to use in a mouse trap.
8. Bed Bugs Can Be Eliminated With DIY Techniques
Bed bugs are one of the most difficult pests to eliminate once they establish an infestation in your home. They are extremely small and only come out to feed at night, making them very hard to locate and identify. They can also multiply rapidly and can infest a structure very quickly. Because of this, they are extremely difficult to get rid of on your own and most cases require professional treatments to eradicate.
9. Termites Can’t Damage Brick Or Concrete Slab Homes
This is one of the biggest myths of pest control. While termites don’t actually eat brick or concrete, they have no trouble crawling over them to get to the wood beam structures that were used to build your home. For this reason, termites can, in fact, cause significant damage to brick and concrete slab homes.
10. If You Don’t See Any Bugs They Aren’t There
Just because you don’t see any bugs or any damage from them doesn’t mean they aren’t there. Termites and carpenter ants can cause damage for months before any signs of their damage become visible. Most infestations are well established before any damage is detected. Bed bugs are also hard to spot and often go unseen but leave devastating signs of their presence behind.
While all of these myths about pest control aren’t true, one thing that is true is prevention is the most effective way to avoid a pest infestation. If you suspect you have a pest control issue, contact a professional pest control company whose technicians are trained in the latest technologies and methods to help identify and eliminate your pest problem.
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Feb 11, 2020 | Termite Control
Termites cost homeowners billions of dollars each year in damages, treatments, and repairs. While traditional termite treatments are extremely effective at eliminating and controlling termite populations, environmentally sensitive homeowners often go in search of more green pest control options. One popular trend on the market today is orange oil treatments. Orange oil is an extract from orange rinds and is commonly used in cleaning solutions and food additives. The active ingredient in orange oil treatment is D-limonene which kills termites on contact by breaking down their exoskeleton and destroying their eggs. Orange oil treatments are the most common no-tent, no move out, organic termite control solutions.
Let’s look at some of the pros and cons of orange oil termite treatments:
Pros
- Low toxicity and more environmentally friendly than other termite control options
- Effective against drywood termites, carpenter ants, and wood-boring beetles
- No need to move out at night during treatment
- No need to remove plants or board pets during treatment
- No need to bag up food or medicinal supplies during treatment
- No potential damage from treatment to roof tiles
Cons
- Not effective against subterranean termites
- Although low toxicity, should not be ingested. Prolonged exposure to oil or fumes can cause skin and eye irritation, nausea and vomiting, lung irritation, and other symptoms
- Product is flammable and combustible once wicked into wood
- Only kills termites on contact and will not kill any undetected infestations
- Treatment requires drilling holes into your walls and other wood components of your home
- Multiple treatments are required as the entire colony is usually not exterminated during a single treatment
- Treatment of larger infestations can be more expensive than fumigation methods
- Treatment can only be applied to existing infestations; there is no residual protection against future infestations
Orange oil treatments are only effective against drywood termites because these pests live and colonize the wood they are infesting. They are not effective against subterranean termites as these pests live in the soil and only come up to feed on wood. Orange oil treatments will begin with a termite inspection to determine the type of termite and the extent of the infestation. Once the areas of termite damage and activity are identified, the technician will drill a hole into the wood and treat the infested areas. Orange oil is then injected into these drilled holes where it spreads throughout the wood beams via capillary action, passing through porous cells in all directions. This kills any termites and eggs on contact. This does not, however, kill any termites that don’t come in contact with the oil treatment. After treatment, the holes are then patched and painted.
In summary, orange oil does, in fact, kill termites but it is limited in its effectiveness. It is considered a secondary spot treatment as it is only effective when it is applied to areas with active infestations. Any termites that remain undetected and untreated will continue to eat, continuing the damage to your home. Because of this, multiple treatments are usually required. These treatments don’t eliminate the entire termite colony, leaving your home vulnerable. Whole structure treatment (fumigation) is a guaranteed method of completely exterminating termites from a structure. During fumigation, the whole house is treated at once. Fumigant gas is used to penetrate the walls, floor, lumber, and other surfaces where termites reside. If you suspect you have a termite issue, contact a professional pest control company who can help identify the type of termite you have, the scope of the infestation, and the best treatment options for your home.
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Jan 9, 2020 | Termite Control
Home projects ramp up with the new year; out with old and in with new renovations. One thing homeowners should consider is pest protection that secures not only those new projects, but also their largest investment: their home.
Termites work in secret: staying out of sight, tunneling underneath homes, or even worse, inside the home’s structure. Depending on the region where the home is located, weather will play a crucial role in the type of termite species that can invade.
Subterranean termites are considered to be one of the most destructive types of termites. Found in every state in the U.S., they use “mud tubes” from the ground reaching up to the structure. They work to damage structures, weakening them bit by bit by eating 24 hours a day, every day.
Formosan termites are the most destructive of the subterranean species. Working and invading from the ground up, Formosans make up large colonies. Found mostly in the southeast, they can chew through insulation, utility poles, and even wires and cables.
Drywood termites are the sneakiest species as they do not need soil to survive. They are brought into homes in wood furniture, so caution and careful inspection should be taken when purchasing secondhand furniture.
Homeowners should take special care to eliminate areas of moisture as this is a huge attractant to the home for termites. An annual termite inspection with a licensed pest control company is highly recommended to find areas of damage and potential infestation sites and determine a proper prevention and treatment plan.
Dec 20, 2019 | Alabama Blogs, Georgia Blogs, Termite Control
By Anna V., Editorial Lead — Pest Education · Last updated: May 2026
Termites cause an estimated $5 billion in property damage across the U.S. every year, and the Southeast accounts for a disproportionate share because of our warm, humid climate. At Northwest, we inspect for termites year-round across Georgia, Alabama, Tennessee, and South Carolina, and the pattern we see over and over is the same: homeowners assume they’re either lucky or unlucky when it comes to termites. They’re neither. Termite damage is largely preventable, and the homes that get hit hardest almost always have one or more risk factors that could have been addressed years earlier.
Here’s the full termite prevention playbook for Southeast homes, including the conditions that attract termites, the DIY steps that actually move the needle, when professional treatment is worth it, and how often you should be inspecting.
Mud tubes on a foundation wall are the most reliable early warning sign of subterranean termite activity.
Why Termite Prevention Is Essential in the Southeast
Three facts make termite prevention non-optional for Southeast homeowners:
- Eastern subterranean termites are present in every county of Georgia and Alabama. They’re not a “what if,” they’re a “when.” The question for most homes isn’t whether termites are nearby, it’s whether your house has the conditions that let them in.
- Damage is usually invisible until it’s significant. Termites work inside wood from the interior outward. By the time you can see visible damage on a wall, sub-floor, or window frame, you’re typically looking at thousands of dollars in repair on top of treatment.
- Most homeowner insurance does not cover termite damage. Repair costs come out of your pocket. Average treatment + repair for a moderate infestation in the Southeast runs $3,000 to $8,000.
Common entry points: wood-to-soil contact around the foundation, cracks in slab foundations or concrete blocks, expansion joints, leaky pipes or excessive moisture, mulch or firewood piled against exterior walls, and gaps where utility lines penetrate the foundation.
Identifying Termite Risk Factors on Your Property
Four risk factors account for most Southeast termite calls. Fix these and you remove the conditions termites need.
Four conditions account for the majority of termite activity in Southeast homes. If you have one or more of these, you’re at elevated risk regardless of what neighbors are seeing.
1. Moisture and Water Issues
Subterranean termites need consistent moisture to survive. Anything that creates a damp microclimate near or under your home raises the risk:
- Leaky exterior faucets, hose bibs, or irrigation lines
- Clogged or missing gutters that dump water at the foundation
- Landscaping graded toward the house rather than away from it
- Air conditioner condensate lines that discharge near the foundation
- Plumbing leaks under sinks, in crawl spaces, or in slab penetrations
2. Wood-to-Soil Contact
Wherever wood touches soil directly, you’ve given termites a no-effort entry path:
- Wooden deck posts set directly in the ground without concrete footers
- Wooden fence posts touching the house
- Wood siding that extends below grade level
- Trellises or arbors attached to the house with the base in soil or mulch
- Wooden steps or porch supports without termite shields
3. Clutter and Yard Debris
Debris near the foundation provides food, shelter, and a launching point for termite colonies:
- Firewood stacked against the house or within 20 feet of the foundation
- Cardboard boxes, lumber, or pallets stored next to the house
- Leaf piles and yard waste against exterior walls
- Old tree stumps within 20 feet of the foundation (subterranean termites love decaying stumps)
4. Landscaping Decisions
Mulch is great for gardens but problematic near foundations:
- Maintain a 2- to 3-foot gap between mulch and the foundation
- Use pea gravel or river rock in the 2-foot zone immediately adjacent to the foundation
- Trim shrubs back from exterior walls (dense vegetation traps moisture and hides mud tubes)
- Avoid heavy irrigation right at the foundation
DIY Termite Prevention Tips
Most prevention work is structural and seasonal. Done right, these steps significantly lower your risk without specialized equipment.
Regular Inspections
Walk your property twice a year (spring and fall) and look for:
- Mud tubes (pencil-thick brown tunnels) running up foundation walls or in crawl spaces
- Wood that sounds hollow when tapped or has blistering paint
- Small piles of what looks like sawdust or fine pellets near wood structures (frass from drywood termites or carpenter ants)
- Discarded wings near windows or doors after a warm rainy day (termite swarmer evidence)
- Sagging or warped flooring that wasn’t there before
Moisture Control
- Clean gutters twice a year and install gutter guards if you have heavy tree cover
- Add downspout extensions to direct water 4+ feet from the foundation
- Run a dehumidifier in basements and conditioned crawl spaces (target 50% RH or below)
- Fix any plumbing leak within 48 hours
- Re-grade landscaping if water pools near the foundation after rain
Remove Wood and Debris Near the Home
- Move firewood to a rack at least 20 feet from the house and elevated off the ground
- Remove old tree stumps within 20 feet of the foundation
- Store lumber, cardboard, and yard tools off the ground in a shed or garage
- Rake fallen leaves away from foundation walls
Natural Deterrents (Supplementary Only)
These don’t replace professional treatment for active infestations but can complement prevention:
- Orange oil or neem oil treatments on exposed exterior wood
- Diatomaceous earth along the foundation perimeter (works on a range of pests including some termites)
- Borate-based wood preservatives on accessible structural wood (decks, fences)
Professional Termite Prevention Methods
For Southeast homes, professional termite prevention is the highest-ROI structural investment most homeowners make. It’s also the only thing that meaningfully protects against a heavy subterranean termite year.
Chemical Barrier (Liquid Termiticide) Treatments
Pest control technicians trench around the foundation and apply a long-lasting termiticide (typically fipronil or imidacloprid) into the soil. This creates a continuous chemical barrier that subterranean termites can’t cross to reach the structure. Modern non-repellent termiticides are particularly effective because the termites don’t detect them and carry the active ingredient back to the colony, often eliminating it. Typical protection lasts 5 to 10 years.
Termite Bait Systems
In-ground bait stations placed around the foundation contain cellulose attractive to subterranean termites. Foraging termites find the bait, share it with the colony through grooming and food exchange, and the active ingredient (typically hexaflumuron or chlorfluazuron) disrupts molting and eliminates the colony. Sentricon and similar systems require ongoing monitoring (typically quarterly or annually) and offer long-term colony elimination rather than just a barrier.
Inspection and Monitoring Services
Professional inspections detect early signs homeowners miss: subterranean mud tubes in inaccessible crawl spaces, drywood damage inside wall voids, moisture issues that create termite-favorable microclimates. Annual inspections are the minimum recommendation for Southeast homes. Twice yearly is more appropriate for homes with risk factors or in heavily wooded areas.
When to Call a Professional Immediately
- Mud tubes on the foundation, in crawl spaces, or inside the home
- Discarded swarmer wings near windows or doors
- Hollow-sounding or visibly damaged wood
- Frass (fine wood-colored pellets) near wood structures
- Sagging floors or doors that suddenly don’t close properly
- You’re buying a home in the Southeast (a pre-purchase termite inspection is essentially required by every reputable lender)
Carpenter Ants vs Termites: Don’t Confuse Them
Carpenter ants and termites both damage wood, but they’re different pests with different treatments. Homeowners often confuse the two:
- Termites eat wood for nutrition. Damage looks smooth and follows the wood grain. Bodies are pale/cream-colored with straight antennae and equal-length wings (in swarmers). They build mud tubes.
- Carpenter ants excavate wood for nesting (they don’t eat it). Damage looks like clean tunnels with sawdust-like frass nearby. Bodies are dark, segmented, with bent antennae and wings of unequal length. No mud tubes.
Both warrant professional treatment, but the methods differ. If you’re unsure which you’re dealing with, see our ants in the kitchen guide for carpenter ant identification details.
Seasonal and Regional Considerations
A foundation with proper drainage, mulch clearance, and no wood-to-soil contact is the structural baseline for termite prevention.
Termite activity follows distinct seasonal patterns in the Southeast:
- Late winter through spring (February-May): Peak swarming season. Subterranean termite swarmers emerge after warm rains, mate, and start new colonies. Most homeowner discoveries happen during this window.
- Summer (June-August): Colonies are at maximum foraging activity. Damage progresses fastest during these months.
- Fall (September-November): Reduced swarming but continued foraging. Good time for prevention work because next year’s swarmers haven’t emerged yet.
- Winter (December-February): Slowed but not dormant in the deep South. Indoor heated environments can keep populations active year-round.
Schedule professional inspections in late winter (January-February) so you catch any new activity before peak swarming season.
Termite Prevention Cost vs Damage Cost
A perspective on the math:
- Annual termite inspection: $75 to $200
- Initial liquid termiticide treatment (typical Southeast home): $1,200 to $2,500
- Bait system installation: $1,500 to $3,000, plus $300 to $600 annual monitoring
- Average damage repair from moderate infestation: $3,000 to $8,000
- Severe damage repair (structural beams, sub-floors): $10,000 to $25,000+
Prevention almost always costs less than treatment + repair, often by a factor of 5 to 10x. For a deeper authoritative reference, UGA Extension’s subterranean termite management guide covers the biology and treatment options in technical detail.
(Worried about termites or due for an inspection? Schedule a free Northwest inspection and we’ll assess your risk factors and recommend the right protection level.)
Frequently Asked Questions About Termite Prevention
Can termites be prevented entirely?
No method is 100% foolproof, but the combination of structural prevention (sealing entry points, controlling moisture, maintaining wood-to-soil separation), professional barrier or bait treatment, and regular inspections reduces risk by an enormous margin. Properly protected Southeast homes are very rarely the ones we see with serious termite damage.
How often should I have a termite inspection?
Annual inspections are the minimum for Southeast homes. Twice yearly (spring and fall) is more appropriate for homes with elevated risk factors (heavily wooded lots, moisture issues, older construction, history of prior termite activity). Pre-purchase termite inspections are essentially required when buying or selling a home in our region.
Are DIY prevention methods effective?
Yes for risk reduction, no as a complete substitute for professional treatment. DIY moisture control, debris removal, wood-to-soil separation, and structural maintenance significantly lower the conditions termites need to establish. Professional treatment (liquid barrier or bait system) is what actually protects against active subterranean colonies that exist in your soil regardless of what you do at the surface.
What’s the best way to protect a new home?
New construction in the Southeast benefits enormously from pre-construction termiticide application (the slab and footings are treated before concrete is poured) or physical barrier installation. Ongoing annual inspections and proper landscaping maintenance preserve that protection. Many Southeast builders include the initial treatment, but the long-term maintenance is on the homeowner.
What does a termite inspection actually involve?
A thorough inspection covers the foundation perimeter (interior and exterior), crawl spaces, basements, accessible attic space, plumbing penetrations, exterior wood structures (decks, porches, fences attached to the home), and any moisture issues. Inspectors look for active mud tubes, damaged wood, frass, discarded wings, and conducive conditions. A typical inspection takes 45 to 90 minutes depending on home size.
Most termite damage starts in places homeowners can’t easily see.
Schedule a Termite Inspection Today
If you haven’t had a termite inspection in over a year, you’re seeing any of the warning signs above, or you’re buying a home in the Southeast, Northwest’s team handles the full termite workflow: inspection, treatment selection, application, and ongoing monitoring. Most termite protection programs pay for themselves many times over in avoided damage.
About the Author
Anna V., Editorial Lead — Pest Education leads pest education content for Northwest Exterminating, working with senior technicians and service center managers across our Georgia, Alabama, Tennessee, and South Carolina service areas to translate field expertise into homeowner-friendly guides. The focus: accurate, regionally-specific answers to the pest questions Southeast homeowners are actually searching for.
