Keep Your Kitchen Pest-Free!

Keep Your Kitchen Pest-Free!

As we gear up for the holidays, we all start to see ourselves spending more time in the kitchen. The kitchen, often the central gathering spot for many families across the country, is a place where finding pests is certainly not ideal. While you continue cooking and gathering with your family this holiday season, keep in mind some of these tips to keep your kitchen pest-free!

Most pests, like cockroaches and rodents, are searching for both moisture and a food source; and during the colder months they also look for a warm place. If food is left out, it’s likely a pest will contaminate it. Roaches can be dangerous as they can spread bacteria and human pathogens when leaving their fecal matter and other debris in or around food.

After cooking and eating, wipe down any crumbs and spills from your countertops, tables, floors, and even shelves. Wash all dirty dishes and drain the dirty dishwater after each use.

Keeping your home well ventilated and dry can help tremendously with keeping pests out. As most pests are attracted to moisture, certain areas of the house can provide the ideal breeding ground for them such as basements, attics, and crawlspaces. They can then migrate to your kitchen in search of food. Try using a dehumidifier in these areas to help decrease the moisture throughout. You may also consider a crawlspace enclosure to help with eliminating moisture and increasing energy savings for your home.

While we can do all the cleaning in the world to keep pests out, sometimes they still find their way inside, even in a clean home! Pests like spiders, fruit flies, and ants can easily sneak inside through the tiniest of gaps and holes. To prevent them, inspect the outside of your home for any potential entry points and seal them up with caulk or steel wool. Don’t forget to repair any broken windows and screens too.

If you feel overwhelmed with the holidays and having to deal with pests in the kitchen, consider reaching out to your local pest control company where they can identify entry points and set up a customized treatment plan.

Have a Pest-Free Holiday!

Have a Pest-Free Holiday!

December is here, officially kicking off the holiday season! Celebrating the holidays with loved ones is important to many families across the country. While we gear up for family get togethers and putting up our favorite decorations, it’s important to remember that even those beloved decorations can allow pests to enter your home!

Holiday Decorations

Many of us store our decorations in attics, basements, and garages. These places are cold and dark, and if there’s a leak, provide water sources, making them ideal habitats for pests! Your stored decorations also provide an undisturbed hiding place for mice, rodents, spiders, and more, who crawl into the storage boxes you put away last holiday season!

To make sure you don’t bring them into your living space, carefully inspect and unpack these items outside first. Keep decorations like foliage, potpourri, and Indian corn in air-tight containers during off-seasons to help prevent pests for next year.

Christmas Tree

If celebrating Christmas, many homeowners buy a real Christmas tree and wreath each year. Unfortunately, pests like spiders, mites, moths, and even squirrels will hitchhike on these decorations and into your home!

Before bringing any of these items in, ensure that you’re inspecting for overwintering pests outside by shaking them. You can also check for any droppings, gnaw marks, or other damage from these creatures before bringing them into your home.  

Firewood

With the holidays comes colder weather. Some of us are lucky enough to have a fireplace to keep warm and cozy throughout the winter season. It’s important to be cautious when bringing firewood indoors. Pests like spiders, termites, and ants will hide out on the firewood and hitch a ride indoors. Make sure you inspect the wood before bringing it inside and keep it stored at least 20 feet from your home on a raised platform.

If you suspect you have a holiday pest problem, consider reaching out to your local pest control company who can provide you with an evaluation and prevention plan.

Is That A Rat or A Mouse and Why It Matters

Is That A Rat or A Mouse and Why It Matters

You’ve found all the signs and you’ve confirmed it – there’s a rodent in your house. But is it a rat or a mouse? Does it really matter? How can you tell? Although there are significant differences in rat vs mouse, it can be hard for the average homeowner to distinguish between the two. The behavior, diet, and habitat of each of these pests affects how they are eliminated and prevented. Proper identification is essential for effective rodent control.

There are over 70 species of mice and rats in the United States. The most common are the Norway rat, the roof rat, and the house mouse. Let’s take a look at the difference between rats and mice and why it matters.

Behavior:

Mice are curious and will investigate anything new they come across. Because of this, you can put set mouse traps directly in their path. Mice can stand on their hind legs when they are supported by their tails. They are excellent jumpers, swimmers and climbers and are extremely fast runners. Mice are nocturnal and most active from dusk until dawn. They do not like bright lights.

Rats are more cautious than mice. They will avoid new things until they get used to them being there. Because of this, unset traps should be placed in their path first to let them get used to them and then replaced with set traps later. Rats are strong swimmers and will often live in sewers, allowing them to enter buildings through broken drains and toilets. They will climb to get to food, water, and shelter. They follow regular routines and paths each day.

Appearance:

House mice are much smaller than their rat cousins. They have small heads, small feet, pointed snouts, and large ears with some hair on them. They are usually light brown in color with some gray shading and dark tails. Their droppings are shaped like small rods.

Norway rats have heavy, thick bodies. They are the largest of the three common rodent species. They have blunt snouts and short ears with dark hair. They are usually brown with black shading and shaggy coats. Their tails are dark on top and pale underneath. Their droppings are shaped like capsules.

Roof rats have light slender bodies. They have pointed snouts and long ears with no hair. They are usually gray in color with black shading and smooth coats. Their tails are dark. They have droppings shaped like spindles.

Diet:

Mice prefer cereal grains and plants but they will feed on almost anything.

Rats will eat nearly anything, as well, but prefer fresh grain and meat. Rats also need 1/2 to 1 ounce of water a day to survive.

Habitat:

Mice prefer to nest near their food sources. They will use any soft material or shredded paper to build their nests.

Rats will burrow under buildings, along fences, and under plants or debris. Norway rats typically live in these burrows while roof rats prefer to nest in walls, attics, and trees.

Breeding:

Mice will have up to 10 litters per year and typically live from about 9 to 12 months.

Norway rats will have up to 6 litters per year and live 12 to 18 months.

Roof rats will have up to 8 litters per year but have fewer babies in their litters than Norway rats do.

Fun Facts:

The house mouse is considered one of the top 100 world’s worst invaders. They are afraid of rats because rats will eat them. Mice are also color blind.

Rats are nocturnal and have poor eyesight. Norway rats and roof rats do not get along and will actually fight each other to the death. Norway rats tend to live on the lower floors of buildings while roof rats will live on the upper floors.

Why Does It Matter?

Why does it matter whether you have a rat or a mouse? Both rat and mice droppings contain pathogens that are dangerous to humans. Both are also very good at breeding and increase their populations quickly, making them harder to control. The significance in properly identifying rats vs mice affects how they are controlled and eliminated. Because they each have such different diets, habitats, and behaviors, different methods are employed when it comes to getting rid of them. What may work for house mice might not be effective in controlling rats and vice versa.

If you have an issue with rodents or any other pests, contact a professional pest control company who can not only properly identify the nuisance pest, but also set you up with the appropriate treatment and ongoing prevention plans.

 

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Crawly Winter Insects

Crawly Winter Insects

Some pests hibernate when the weather gets colder, while others seek out warmth inside of our homes. These overwintering pests will sneak through any open crevice or gap from the exterior of your home and can stay there all winter long undetected. Here are a few crawly pests that could be hiding out in your house! 

German Cockroaches 

The German cockroach is a common roach species found throughout the world. These roaches range from 1/2 to 5/8 inches and are brown with two-longitudinal stripes running down the thorax. They prefer to live in smaller areas close to food and moisture, such as inside pantries, basements, and bathrooms. Roaches are dangerous as they can contaminate food sources, spreading bacteria and human pathogens by leaving their fecal matter and other debris in and around food and food preparation areas. 

To prevent cockroaches, make sure you keep your kitchen counters clean and free of crumbs. Vacuum frequently and always dispose of the garbage regularly. Look out for any leaks in the kitchen and bathrooms, as this moisture will attract roaches

Brown Recluse Spider 

Measuring the size of a quarter, the brown recluse spider can exist in large numbers. These spiders have six eyes arranged in three pairs, which is quite different from other species of spiders that have eight eyes arranged in two rows. The brown recluse prefers to live in dark areas such as under furniture, in wall voids, basements, crawl spaces, and in closets. While these spiders typically spin their webs in darker places, they can also found in cardboard boxes, along window molding, and even in shoes. The brown recluse can be dangerous to humans, as they will bite and inject venom if disturbed or threatened. 

To prevent these spiders from entering your home, keep the trees and shrubs trimmed away from the house and roof. Repair any loose siding or shingles as they can easily sneak in through any gaps and openings. Consider installing a mesh cover or cap over chimneys to prevent entry. 

Bed Bugs 

Bed bugs are 3/16” to 1/4” in length or about the size of an apple seed or a pencil eraser. They are long and brown, flat in shape with an oval-shaped body, and brown in color. These pests enjoy harboring in cracks and crevices during the day and will come out at night to feed. You will typically find them in beds, mattresses, box springs, rails, headboards, and footboards. Bed bugs will bite humans on areas of skin that are exposed during sleep. Bed bugs are also notorious for hitchhiking from place to place through luggage, following you back home after traveling. 

To prevent bed bugs, routinely check linens, mattresses, and even pet beds for live bugs. Thoroughly inspect any used furniture before bringing it inside your home. If you have recently travelled, inspect your luggage before bringing it inside your home, immediately take your clothes out and wash them in hot water, and dry them on high heat. 

If you suspect that you have any of these pests inside your home, consider reaching out to your local pest control company where they can help identify, inspect, and provide a prevention plan.

Holiday Pantry Pests

Holiday Pantry Pests

It’s finally the holiday season when we can celebrate with our favorite dishes and desserts! While we might find ourselves stocking up on ingredients for our upcoming dinners, you could be providing certain “pantry pests” their holiday meals! Here are two common pantry pests to look out for this holiday season.

Indian Meal Moth

The Indian meal moth is famously known for feeding on pantry items. These pests have a two-toned wing pattern with tan or copper colors throughout their oval-shaped body. They have six legs and a 1/2” to 5/8” wingspan. These insects are highly attracted to light and anywhere they can find food stored. They prefer to feed on dried fruits and vegetables, grains, seeds, nuts, candies, chocolate, pet food, and powdered milk.

Merchant Grain Beetles

The merchant grain beetle has a dark brown body, six legs, and six saw-like teeth on each side of their bodies. Their narrow oval body shape allows them to crawl inside of packaging to eat, live, and reproduce. While their name suggests that they feed on grains, they actually prefer to feed on cereals, cake mixes, macaroni, cookies, and chocolate! Once these insects infest food packages, they immediately contaminate them.

Prevention:

  • Buy dried food in quantities that can be eaten or used within 2 to 4 months
  • Use up all your older food products before buying new ones
  • Store foods in tightly closed containers, preferably those made of glass, metal, or heavy plastic
  • Keep food storage areas clean by cleaning up crumbs and spills immediately
  • Thoroughly clean cracks and corners of cupboards and doors with a vacuum cleaner
  • Inspect all food packages before buying them or bringing them home
Fall Pest Control: Oriental Cockroaches

Fall Pest Control: Oriental Cockroaches

One of the lesser known species of cockroaches, the oriental cockroach (Blatta orientalis), also known as the black beetle cockroach and the waterbug, is actually one of the largest next to its cousin, the American cockroach. These pests are great at hiding and fitting into tight locations and have adapted to thrive both indoors and outdoors. Let’s take a look at how to identify Oriental cockroaches, as well as some cockroach prevention tips.

Appearance

The Oriental cockroach is dark brown to nearly black in color with a smooth shiny exoskeleton. Although not quite as big as American cockroaches, these bugs do get up to 1 inch in length. Males are slightly shorter than females with stubbed wings and females are longer and skinnier without wings.

Habitat

These roaches are found throughout the United States and prefer warm, moist, dark locations. They thrive outdoors, often residing under piles of leaves, mulch, stone, wood, flower beds, and debris. They will travel through sewers and can come into your home through pipes and drains. Indoors, they can be found in rarely used sink drains, garbage disposals, under cabinets with plumbing, and in bathroom voids.

Diet

Oriental roaches are omnivores, eating nearly any type of food source but preferring decaying plants and rotting garbage. They will also make do with crumbs, pet food, and leftover human food, too. They are very dependent on water which is why they are usually found in areas with high moisture. They can survive up to 1 month with no food but only 2 weeks without water.

Behavior

These cockroaches are slower than most of their counterparts. They prefer to be active outdoors and are nocturnal. Males have wings but don’t fly. They have a lifespan of 1 to 6 months and their reproduction is seasonal – they produce more eggs in the spring and summer than they do the rest of the year.

Threats

Oriental cockroaches are dangerous to humans as they are known to transmit bacteria such as E. coli and salmonella. Because they eat decaying food and other material, they can contaminate food and other surfaces with the pathogens picked up from their food sources. They also excrete odors which can trigger allergies and asthma in those affected.

Signs

There are 3 main signs of Oriental cockroaches in your home:

  1. Seeing actual live bugs.
  2. Finding egg cases around your home.
  3. A wet, musty smell that gets stronger with larger cockroach infestations.

Prevention

  • Keep your home clean and sanitized, especially areas with water (around drains, pipes, bathrooms, and basements)
  • Seal doorways with weatherstripping
  • Seal holes and cracks in foundations
  • Vacuum often
  • Use a dehumidifier to prevent moisture buildup
  • Keep gutters clear or install gutter guards
  • Divert water away from foundations with properly functioning downspouts, gutters, and splash blocks

If you have a problem with cockroaches of any kind, contact a professional pest control company for proper identification, potential points of entry, and the most up to date treatment options available.

 

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Kudzu Bugs vs. Brown Marmorated Stink Bug: What’s the Difference?

Kudzu Bugs vs. Brown Marmorated Stink Bug: What’s the Difference?

Noticing small, greenish-brown bugs congregating throughout the cracks of your home’s foundation or even inside your house? While many might identify these insects as stinkbugs, they might actually kudzu bugs! Kudzu bugs and brown marmorated stinkbugs are often confused with each other. While these pests do have some similarities, they are quite different from each other. Let’s breakdown how these insects are both alike and different!

How They’re Alike
Kudzu Bug
Kudzu Bug

Both stinkbugs and kudzu bugs are known to be a nuisance to all homeowners. Both are highly attracted to warmth and will enter homes to find a warm place to gather. When disturbed, both species will emit an alarming chemical defense against predators. When crushed, they release a very unpleasant odor from their bodies. Even worse, if several of these insects are crushed together, the smell left behind is extremely powerful. 

How They’re Different
Stinkbug
Stinkbug

A stinkbug’s shield-like body is around 1/2″ long and 1/2″ wide with shades of brown across its entire body. Their body size is a bit larger than a kudzu bug, with the kudzu’s measuring only 4 to 6 millimeters long. Kudzu bug bodies are olive green and brown, with a flat, squarish body shape.

Stinkbugs will typically feed off ornamental plants, fruit trees, legumes, and vegetables. The kudzu bug prefers to eat kudzu vines but will occasionally eat soybeans and most any other type of beans. While both stinkbugs and kudzu bugs utilize different types of food sources, both will destroy crops, making both species agricultural pests.

How to Prevent Them

If you notice either of these pests infesting your home, try some of these pest prevention tips below:

  • Seal cracks around windows, doors, siding, and outlets that are leading inside.
  • Properly ventilate basements, attics, garages, and crawlspaces to eliminate harborage points.
  • Install screens over chimney and crawlspace vents.
  • Consider calling your local pest control company to inspect, identify areas of entry, and provide you with a treatment plan!
Millipedes in House — Natural Ways to Remove and Prevent Them

Millipedes in House — Natural Ways to Remove and Prevent Them

If you’ve found millipedes in your house and want to get rid of them without spraying chemicals, you’re in the right place. At Northwest, we run millipede calls across Georgia, Alabama, Tennessee, and South Carolina nearly every week during the spring and fall rainy seasons. The good news: millipedes are harmless (no bites, no stings, no property damage) and they respond well to natural removal methods. Most homeowners can solve a millipede problem in their house with a few changes around the foundation, a dehumidifier, and some basic sealing. No pesticides required.

Here’s the realistic version of natural millipede control: what actually works, what doesn’t, and what to do when DIY methods aren’t enough.

Multiple millipedes clustered along a residential basement baseboard after a heavy Southeast rain — a typical sighting that triggers homeowner searches for natural removal.

A cluster of millipedes along a basement baseboard usually shows up within 48 hours of heavy rain.

What Are Millipedes and Why They Enter Homes

Millipedes are segmented arthropods that thrive in moist, dark environments. They eat decaying plant matter, not your home, your food, or any living thing inside. They’re slow movers, they don’t bite, and they don’t carry disease. They’re a nuisance pest, not a hazard.

Three things drive millipedes into Southeast homes:

  • Wet weather and saturated soil. Heavy spring or fall rain pushes millipedes from their outdoor habitat (mulch, leaf litter, soil) toward drier ground. Sometimes that drier ground is your basement.
  • Drought and dehydration. Extended dry weather has the opposite effect — millipedes seek any source of moisture, which can include indoor humidity from bathrooms, basements, and crawl spaces.
  • Foundation conditions. Mulch beds against the house, leaf litter near the foundation, downspouts emptying close to the wall, and ground-level cracks all combine to make your home the easiest moisture refuge in the neighborhood.

For more on why millipedes appear and how to identify them (including the millipede vs centipede confusion most homeowners run into), see our companion guide on why there are so many household millipedes in your home.

Signs of a Millipede Infestation

Most millipede problems are obvious. You see them moving on the floor or curled up dead in corners. Other signs:

  • Live sightings in basements, bathrooms, garages, crawl spaces, or laundry rooms.
  • Trails of curled, dehydrated millipedes in damp corners. They enter looking for moisture and die when they don’t find enough.
  • Clusters near entry points: gaps under doors, foundation cracks, basement window wells.
  • Movement within 24 to 48 hours after a major rain event.
  • Shed exoskeletons in undisturbed corners (suggests an established indoor population).

Natural Methods to Get Rid of Millipedes in Your House

The most effective natural millipede control isn’t a product. It’s removing the conditions that attract them in the first place. Five categories of natural methods, ranked by effectiveness.

5 natural ways to get rid of millipedes in your house — moisture control, sealing entry points, clutter reduction, essential oils, and diatomaceous earth compared.

Moisture control does most of the work. Essential oils are short-term help at best.

1. Remove Moisture Sources (The Most Effective Method)

Millipedes can’t survive indoors without moisture. Remove the moisture, and the indoor population resolves itself within days. Steps:

  • Fix all leaky pipes and faucets. Even slow drips support indoor millipede populations.
  • Run a dehumidifier in basements and crawl spaces. Target relative humidity below 50%. Most home improvement stores carry units in the 30 to 70 pint range; a 50-pint dehumidifier handles most Southeast basements.
  • Improve ventilation in bathrooms (exhaust fan that vents outside, not into the attic), laundry rooms (proper dryer vent), and crawl spaces (functional vents or encapsulation).
  • Address standing water in floor drains, sink overflows, sump pump pits, and condensation around HVAC units.

This is the single highest-impact natural method. Most homes with persistent millipede problems are also homes with chronic moisture issues. Solve one, you usually solve the other.

2. Seal Entry Points

Millipedes can only enter through gaps. Sealing them is the only way to keep new arrivals out for good.

  • Caulk foundation cracks at ground level.
  • Install or replace door sweeps and weatherstripping (especially garage side doors and basement hatches).
  • Screen crawl space vents with galvanized 1/4-inch hardware cloth.
  • Cover window wells with rigid plastic or metal covers.
  • Seal gaps around utility line penetrations with steel wool packed into the gap, then caulk over the top.
  • Check brick weep holes; screen them with a fine mesh if they’re large enough for millipedes to enter.

3. Reduce Clutter and Hiding Spots

Damp clutter holds moisture and creates millipede shelter. Decluttering reduces both:

  • Clear stacks of cardboard, magazines, and stored papers from damp basement floors.
  • Move stored items off the floor onto shelves or pallets.
  • Transfer storage from cardboard to plastic bins. Cardboard absorbs moisture and is itself a food source for millipedes.
  • Keep basement and crawl space corners clean and dry.

4. Diatomaceous Earth

Diatomaceous earth (DE) is a fine powder made from fossilized aquatic organisms. The microscopic edges damage the exoskeleton of insects and arthropods that crawl through it, causing dehydration. Food-grade DE is safe for use around children and pets when applied lightly.

Where to apply:

  • Light dusting along baseboards in basements and crawl spaces
  • Around foundation cracks and door thresholds
  • Inside crawl space access doors
  • Reapply after vacuuming or any moisture exposure (DE loses effectiveness when wet)

Caution: don’t over-apply. A visible white layer on baseboards isn’t more effective than a thin barely-visible dusting. It just creates a cleanup project. DE works on millipedes that crawl through it, not on millipedes that don’t.

5. Essential Oils and Natural Repellents

Cedar oil, peppermint oil, and tea tree oil all show modest, short-term repellent effects against millipedes. Mix 10 to 15 drops of essential oil per cup of water in a spray bottle and apply around entry points, baseboards, and any spots where you’ve seen millipede activity.

Honest expectations: scent-based repellents fade within 24 to 72 hours and need frequent reapplication. They’re a supplement to moisture control and sealing, not a substitute. Use them as a short-term measure while you address the underlying conditions.

What about vinegar? Equal parts vinegar and water sprayed around entry points has anecdotal support but limited research backing. It’s safe and cheap so there’s no harm in trying, but don’t expect it to solve a persistent problem on its own.

Step-by-Step DIY Removal Guide

If you have an active millipede problem and want to handle it naturally, follow this sequence:

  1. Identify entry points. Walk the perimeter of the basement, crawl space, or affected room. Look for cracks, gaps under doors, unsealed pipe penetrations, and dampness on walls.
  2. Reduce indoor humidity. Plug in a dehumidifier in the affected area. Set it to 45 to 50% relative humidity. Run continuously for at least 2 weeks.
  3. Address the outdoor conditions. Pull mulch back 3 feet from the foundation. Remove leaf litter against the house. Make sure downspouts extend at least 4 feet from the foundation.
  4. Vacuum visible millipedes. Empty the canister outside immediately to avoid odor buildup.
  5. Apply diatomaceous earth in a thin dusting at known entry points and along baseboards in affected areas.
  6. Seal entry points as a final step, after the indoor population has cleared. Caulking, door sweeps, hardware cloth on vents.
  7. Maintain. Re-check entry points seasonally. Run the dehumidifier through humid months. Keep mulch beds away from the foundation.
A residential basement with a dehumidifier running in the corner, sealed door sweeps, and clean dry concrete floor — the conditions that prevent millipedes in the house.

A dehumidifier set to 45-50% humidity is the single highest-impact change for keeping millipedes out long-term.

Preventing Millipedes from Entering Your House Long-Term

Once you’ve cleared an active problem, prevention focuses on the conditions that allowed millipedes in the first place.

  • Seal cracks and gaps in doors, windows, and foundations seasonally. The Southeast freeze-thaw cycle and soil expansion can open new gaps each year.
  • Maintain a 3-foot mulch-free zone around the foundation. Use gravel, river rock, or bare soil within 3 feet of the house. Move mulch beds farther out.
  • Remove leaves, mulch, and organic debris from the foundation perimeter regularly. Fall raking is especially important.
  • Direct downspouts away from the foundation. Add extensions if needed. Standing water within 2 feet of the house is the single biggest contributor to millipede entry.
  • Control indoor humidity with dehumidifiers, proper ventilation, and prompt leak repair.
  • Trim back vegetation so air circulates against the foundation. Damp shaded foundation walls hold millipedes longer.

When Natural Methods Aren’t Enough

Most millipede problems clear up with the natural methods above. Some don’t. Call Northwest for professional millipede control if:

  • You’ve followed the DIY steps for 3 to 4 weeks and millipede sightings haven’t dropped significantly.
  • You’re finding more than 10 to 15 millipedes per day in any single room.
  • You can’t identify the entry points or moisture source on your own.
  • You’re dealing with millipedes plus other moisture pests (sowbugs, springtails, centipedes, ground beetles). All share the same root cause and can be solved together.
  • The home has chronic crawl space moisture, drainage problems, or other structural issues contributing to the millipede problem. Professional pest control + targeted moisture remediation handles both layers.

The UGA Extension Bulletin B 1412 on Southeastern household pests recommends professional pest control when DIY moisture management hasn’t reduced indoor millipede activity within a few weeks.

(Tried the natural methods and millipedes keep coming back? Request a free Northwest inspection and we’ll find the entry points and moisture sources driving them in.)

Millipedes In House: Southeast Seasonal Patterns

Millipede pressure in Georgia, Alabama, Tennessee, and South Carolina follows a predictable rhythm. Plan prevention around it.

  • March through May: Spring rains drive the first major peak. Foundation perimeter prep (mulch pullback, downspout checks) is best done in late February or early March before the rainy season.
  • June through August: Summer thunderstorms produce intermittent peaks. Dehumidifier should be running continuously in basements during this period.
  • September through November: Fall rains and cooler nights drive the second annual peak. This is the period when most homeowners notice clusters of curled, dead millipedes in basement corners.
  • December through February: Activity drops significantly. Use this window for entry-point sealing and structural prevention work, since indoor millipede pressure is at its lowest.

Frequently Asked Questions About Millipedes in the House

Are millipedes harmful to humans or pets?

No, millipedes are harmless. They don’t bite, sting, transmit disease, or damage homes. Some species release a mild defensive secretion when handled, which can briefly irritate skin and shouldn’t be eaten by pets in large numbers, but otherwise they’re entirely safe to have around.

Why do millipedes come inside my home?

They’re seeking moisture, warmth, and shelter. Heavy rain saturates their outdoor environment and pushes them indoors looking for drier ground. Drought has the opposite effect; they seek any source of moisture, which can include indoor humidity. Foundation mulch, leaf litter, and entry-point gaps make some homes much easier targets than others.

How do I prevent millipedes indoors permanently?

Three layers: (1) reduce indoor humidity with a dehumidifier and leak repair, (2) seal all entry points (foundation cracks, door gaps, crawl space vents), and (3) maintain a 3-foot mulch-free zone around the foundation. The first two address current entries; the third reduces outdoor pressure year-round.

Can essential oils keep millipedes away?

Cedar, peppermint, and tea tree oils show modest short-term repellent effects against millipedes. Mix 10 to 15 drops per cup of water and spray around entry points. Expectations: they fade within 24 to 72 hours and need frequent reapplication. Use them as a supplement to moisture control and sealing, not a substitute.

Does diatomaceous earth kill millipedes?

Yes, food-grade diatomaceous earth (DE) damages the exoskeleton of millipedes that crawl through it, causing dehydration. Apply a thin dusting at baseboards and entry points in affected areas. Reapply after vacuuming or any moisture exposure, since DE loses effectiveness when wet.

A pest control technician inspecting a residential basement for moisture sources and millipede entry points.

Most natural millipede solutions work. When they don’t, the underlying issue is usually structural moisture that needs more attention.

Solve the Millipede Problem at the Source

Natural millipede control works well for most homeowners. When it doesn’t, the underlying issue is usually structural moisture or hard-to-find entry points that need professional eyes. Northwest’s team handles the full workflow: moisture assessment, entry-point sealing, targeted eco-friendly treatment, and prevention plans tied to Southeast seasonal patterns.

About the Author

Anna V., Editorial Lead — Pest Education leads pest education content for Northwest Exterminating, working with senior technicians and service center managers across our Georgia, Alabama, Tennessee, and South Carolina service areas to translate field expertise into homeowner-friendly guides. The focus: accurate, regionally-specific answers to the pest questions Southeast homeowners are actually searching for.


What’s Attracting These Roaches?!

What’s Attracting These Roaches?!

You’ve cleaned your entire house, mopping and sweeping the floors, cleaning up crumbs and vacuuming, but you keep seeing roaches! Unfortunately, even in a clean house roaches can find their way inside. Cockroaches seek out three things: water, food, and shelter. While you might think you’ve taken all the necessary precautions, there could be some elements you’re missing that can attract roaches to your home.

Roaches are thigmotactic, meaning they want to feel contact on all sides of their bodies. Because of this, they are commonly found nesting in places such as wall cracks, under sinks, in drains, and even water heaters. Every home has these features so despite your best cleaning efforts, these pests can still find a way in through small gaps or doors to reach these locations.

Even the cleanest of homes can still have the occasional leaky pipe or faucet. Roaches need moisture to survive and are constantly searching for it. Areas where moisture has accumulated is an attractant to roaches. Refrigerators and air conditioning units are two common places that these pests infest. Cockroaches enjoy dark areas equally as much as they do water. You can traditionally find these pests in basements near appliances that use water, too.

Besides what brings them inside your home, roaches are also attracted to what’s outside. Standing water in places like gutters, flowerpots, or birdbaths can also attract these pests to your property. Trash and recycling bins also provide a great food source for roaches, as they typically will eat garbage.

Once a cockroach infestation is established, it’s extremely hard to get rid of them. Here are some further precautions you can take to help prevent roaches:

  • Seal any cracks and gaps that are leading into your home
  • Repair any water leaks throughout your house
  • Sweep daily and vacuum your house weekly
  • Keep your garbage and recycle cans sealed

Tired of dealing with roaches yourself? Consider calling a professional pest control company who can inspect your home, identify where these pests are getting in from, and provide you with a customized plan to treat them. 

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