How Much Does It Cost To Remove Animals From Your Attic?

How Much Does It Cost To Remove Animals From Your Attic?

Nuisance wildlife is defined as any type of wild animal that invades a human habitat. This can include squirrels, skunks, opossum, raccoons, moles, voles, groundhogs, birds, bats, snakes, rodents, and more. Anytime a pest gets into your home the potential for damage and contamination is significant. That’s why it’s important to deal with the issue as soon as possible.

There are different ways to handle nuisance pests when they find a way into your home. Extermination involves killing the nuisance pest through the use of  traps, toxins, and poisons. While this is generally cheaper and more efficient, the chemicals used can be dangerous for humans, pets, and other non-nuisance wildlife. Wildlife control involves the selective removal of problem populations of certain species of wildlife and usually employs the use of live traps or professional trappers to catch and relocate the nuisance pests to a safer habitat away from humans. This method usually takes longer than extermination and is more expensive. Wildlife exclusion is usually performed as a part of either of these wildlife services and involves preventative measures such as sealing up entry points and habitat modification (which ensures unwanted pests can’t access your property or structures).

Animal control services can be provided by your local government and is usually free although it is often selective in what types of animals they will service. Services provided and cost varies by area and municipality.

A professional wildlife control company will often combine wildlife control, exclusion and/or extermination methods depending on the type of pest you have. Whenever possible, humane control methods such as live removal and relocation are the preferred method of treatment.

Wildlife services typically range from $150 to $500 with the average visit costing between $250 and $250, although it can cost upwards of $1000 depending on what type of pest is involved and how much damage has already been caused. Most wildlife control companies will charge a flat fee or a minimum service fee (usually between $150 and $250), although some will also charge an additional hourly fee per hour after the first hour of service (anywhere from $25/hour to $250/hour depending on the service). This is determined by the type of pest problem, where it is located in the house, and what services are required (removal, exclusion, cleanup, etc). Raccoons and squirrels are usually the most expensive pests to service with an average of $200 to $1500 for a visit depending on the size of the infestation and the amount of damage inflicted. DIY traps can cost anywhere from $50 to $350.

In addition to fees for wildlife control services, damages caused by these nuisance pests is an often overlooked cost that should factor in to the overall budget. The longer you wait to get rid of the pest, the more damage that can occur. Nuisance pests can damage walls, chew through electrical wiring putting you at risk for fires, destroy insulation, and contaminate your home and HVAC system. Repairs for these issues including insulation replacement, wiring repair, drywall repair, duct repair, crawlspace cleaning and repair, and siding repair can be quite expensive and the cost can escalate quickly.

If you have a wildlife issue, contact a professional wildlife control company. A professional technician can inspect your home to determine what type of animal you are dealing with, the extent of the problem and damage, and appropriate ways to treat it. They can also provide you with wildlife exclusion techniques to help prevent repeat issues in the future. Professionals also guarantee their methods and are trained in the proper handling of wildlife, as well as the newest methods and techniques.

 

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How to Get Rid of Birds Around Your Home

How to Get Rid of Birds Around Your Home

Birds are great when they’re in trees. They’re a problem when they’re nesting in your dryer vent, leaving droppings down your siding, or waking you up at 5 AM with constant chirping above your bedroom ceiling. If you’re searching for how to get rid of birds safely and effectively, you’re in the right place. At Northwest, we run bird control calls year-round across our Georgia, Alabama, Tennessee, and South Carolina service area, and the question we hear most often is some version of: I tried [home remedy]. Why are they still here?

Video Transcript

Some birds are beautiful to watch, but when they start nesting on your home, the damage and mess can add up fast.
Droppings can carry disease. Nests can clog vents and chimneys, and addicts can quickly become unwanted bird hangouts.
Here are three smart ways to keep birds from moving in. First, remove what attracts them. Birds come for easy food and water. Keep grass trimmed to reduce insects. Store pet food in sealed containers and eliminate standing water whenever possible. Second, make surfaces uncomfortable. Shiny objects like foil strips or pie plates reflect light and scare birds away.
Double-sided tape or baking soda on ledges and railings can stop perching almost immediately. Third, maintain your yard and know the rules. Trim trees and shrubs, but never remove an active nest. Laws protect many birds. When you’re ready to call a professional for a peaceful home, feel free to reach out to our team at Northwest Exterminating.

Here’s a realistic look at what works, what doesn’t, and what’s legally required when birds set up shop on your house. Plus what to do when DIY isn’t enough.

A bird's nest built inside a residential dryer vent on the side of a Southeast home — one of the most common bird issues we treat.

A bird nest in a dryer vent is more than a nuisance. It blocks airflow, traps lint, and creates a real fire hazard.

Why Birds Become a Problem on Homes

Birds don’t pick houses at random. They show up because the conditions are good for them, and they stay because nothing changes. Three things draw birds to a Southeast home and keep them coming back:

Shelter and nesting spots. Rooflines, gutters, eaves, attic vents, gable vents, dryer vents, soffits, and any small protected cavity make ideal nesting sites. Pigeons, sparrows, and starlings are all cavity-nesters, which is why they end up inside vents rather than building open nests in trees.

Food sources. Pet food on a porch, fallen fruit under a tree, accessible trash, breadcrumbs after outdoor meals, insects on a sunlit wall, and (less obviously) bird feeders that overflow are all reasons birds keep returning.

Warmth and safety from predators. Attics, soffits, and vents offer protection from hawks, owls, snakes, and other natural threats. From a bird’s perspective, your house is a five-star nesting hotel.

The common results homeowners deal with:

  • Loud chirping and early morning noise during nesting season (March through August)
  • Droppings on patios, siding, walkways, and driveways
  • Clogged gutters and blocked vents
  • Damage to roofing, insulation, and exterior surfaces
  • Dryer vent fires (a real and dangerous risk when bird nests block airflow)

Common Birds That Cause Problems Around Southeast Homes

Across Georgia, Alabama, Tennessee, and South Carolina, the bird species we encounter most often on residential bird control calls are:

  • Rock pigeons. Common on roofs, ledges, and around commercial buildings. Heavy droppings, persistent return behavior. Non-native, not protected.
  • House sparrows. Small but persistent. Frequently nest in vents, eaves, and small structural openings. Aggressive about defending nest sites. Non-native, not protected.
  • European starlings. Often in large flocks. Heavy nesting in cavities and vents, noisy, leave significant droppings. Non-native, not protected.
  • Barn and cliff swallows. Build mud nests on the underside of eaves, porches, and overhangs. Protected by federal law — active nest disturbance requires special handling.
  • Woodpeckers. Damage cedar siding and trim with drumming and excavation. Most species are federally protected.
  • Robins, mockingbirds, blue jays. Less commonly nest on homes but occasionally do in shrubs against the siding. All federally protected.

Knowing the species matters because the three most common nuisance birds (pigeons, sparrows, starlings) can be handled with standard control approaches, while protected native species require a different approach.

Do Home Remedies Really Get Rid of Birds?

Short answer: sometimes, briefly. Most home remedies provide short-term relief before birds adapt and return. Birds are smart and pattern-recognize quickly. Within a few weeks of installing any single deterrent, most birds figure out it’s not actually a threat.

If you’re dealing with a recurring issue (birds nesting on your house, a bird problem on your roof, droppings that won’t quit), DIY methods alone usually won’t solve the problem long-term. The reason is structural: birds keep returning because the underlying conditions (food, water, shelter, easy access) haven’t changed.

5 Common Home Remedies to Keep Birds Away — Honest Effectiveness

DIY home remedies vs professional bird control comparison — effectiveness, longevity, and cost compared.

DIY methods buy you weeks. Professional exclusion buys you a decade.

Here’s a realistic look at the five home remedies most homeowners try first, with pros, cons, and effectiveness ratings.

1. Reflective Objects (Foil Strips, Old CDs, Mirrors)

How it works: Light reflection startles birds. Pros: Low cost, easy to set up. Cons: Birds habituate within two to four weeks if not rotated. Effectiveness: Low to moderate for short-term arrivals. Improves significantly if you rotate the reflective objects weekly.

2. Strong Scents (Peppermint, Vinegar, Cayenne Spray)

How it works: Strong-smelling compounds are meant to repel birds. Pros: Cheap, “natural.” Cons: Limited research support, fades within days outdoors, washes out in rain, can damage plants and paint. Effectiveness: Low. Treat as a supplement at best, not a primary method.

3. Fake Predators (Plastic Owls, Hawks, Snake Decoys)

How it works: Mimics natural threats. Pros: Can work briefly, especially right after installation. Cons: Birds recognize they’re not real if they don’t move. A plastic owl in the same spot for two weeks becomes a perch. Effectiveness: Low if static, moderate if moved every 3 to 5 days.

4. Wind Deterrents (Spinners, Streamers, Pinwheels)

How it works: Movement and unpredictability create discomfort. Pros: More effective than static visual deterrents because there’s actual motion. Cons: Still loses effectiveness over time as birds get used to predictable patterns. Effectiveness: Moderate. Better than static options, especially when combined with rotation.

5. Sound Deterrents (Ultrasonic Devices, Distress Calls)

How it works: Noise discomfort or simulated alarm calls. Pros: Can disrupt initial nesting attempts. Cons: Ultrasonic effectiveness is questionable in independent testing. Audible distress calls work better but disturb your neighbors. Effectiveness: Low to moderate. Better suited for commercial buildings than residential settings.

Bottom line on home remedies: they can buy you a few weeks. They rarely stop nesting attempts long-term, and they almost never address why birds came to your house in the first place.

Why DIY Bird Deterrents Often Don’t Last

Three reasons DIY bird control fails over the long term:

  • Birds adapt fast. Within a week or two of any new deterrent, birds figure out it’s not actually a threat. Habituation is the biggest enemy of all DIY methods.
  • Nesting instincts override discomfort. During breeding season (March through August in the Southeast), birds will tolerate significant nuisance to defend a good nesting site. Annoying them isn’t enough.
  • Entry points stay open. Most DIY methods don’t seal the access points birds use. As long as the dryer vent is open, the gable vent is unscreened, or the soffit gap exists, birds keep returning.

For deeper analysis of which DIY bird deterrent methods work and how to maximize their effectiveness, see our companion guide on 5 DIY bird deterrents that actually work.

When Bird Problems Become a Bigger Issue

What starts as a few birds on the roof can escalate into serious problems if ignored.

Health Concerns

Bird droppings can carry pathogens including histoplasmosis (a respiratory illness from fungal spores in dried droppings), salmonella, and E. coli. Most healthy adults aren’t at significant risk, but people with respiratory conditions or compromised immune systems should avoid disturbing dried droppings without proper protection.

Property Damage

Bird droppings are acidic and damage paint, siding, decking, and concrete over time. Nests clog gutters, block vents, and damage roofing materials. Cumulative damage from a long-term bird problem can run into thousands of dollars in repairs.

Fire Hazards

Dry nesting materials in dryer vents are one of the more dangerous bird-related issues. Lint that can’t escape through a blocked vent builds up against hot dryer ducts, and a small spark inside the dryer can ignite the material. Dryer vent fires cause an estimated 2,900 home fires annually in the U.S. (per the National Fire Protection Association). A bird nest in the vent significantly raises that risk.

Legal Concerns

The federal Migratory Bird Treaty Act of 1918 protects more than 1,000 native bird species. It’s illegal to disturb their active nests, eggs, or young without specific permits. The penalty for violations can exceed $15,000 per offense. For the three most common Southeast nuisance species (pigeons, sparrows, starlings), this isn’t a concern. For native species (swallows, woodpeckers, robins, mockingbirds), removing an active nest without proper authorization is a federal offense.

This is one of the reasons we recommend professional bird control whenever protected species are involved. We work within the legal framework and time removals to be both effective and compliant.

The Most Effective Way to Get Rid of Birds: Humane Exclusion

The gold standard for bird control is exclusion: making your property physically unable to host birds in the spots they want to use. Exclusion includes:

  • Bird spikes installed along ledges, gutter edges, rooflines, and HVAC equipment housings to prevent landing.
  • Bird netting stretched across eaves, soffit openings, and under solar panels to block nesting access.
  • Vent and roofline covers on dryer vents, bathroom vents, gable vents, and attic vents. Bird-proof vent covers allow normal airflow while blocking bird entry.
  • Chimney caps with appropriate mesh to keep birds out of chimneys (also keeps out raccoons, squirrels, bats, and snakes).
  • Habitat modification around the property to remove food, water, and shelter that draws birds in the first place.
  • Humane nest removal when legally permitted, timed to avoid breeding season disruption.

Exclusion done right typically lasts 10+ years with minimal maintenance. It’s also the only approach that addresses the root cause rather than the symptom.

A pest control technician installing a bird-proof cover over a residential gable vent — professional exclusion work that stops bird nesting at the source.

Bird-proof vent covers and roofline exclusion fix the access points DIY deterrents can’t reach.

DIY vs Professional Bird Control

The honest comparison:

DIY home remedies work well for early-stage problems — a few birds scouting, no active nests, recent arrivals. Cost is low. Effectiveness lasts weeks to a few months. Effort is ongoing (rotating deterrents, replacing materials, monitoring).

Store-bought deterrents (DIY-installed spikes, netting kits, ultrasonic devices) work better than home remedies and last longer. Cost is moderate. Installation matters significantly — poor installation creates gaps birds exploit.

Professional bird control handles established problems, protected species, large flocks, and hard-to-reach locations. Cost is higher upfront. Effectiveness lasts 10+ years with minimal follow-up. Legal compliance is built in. Northwest’s bird control service handles species identification, exclusion design and installation, habitat assessment, nest removal (when legal), and follow-up monitoring.

Bird Problems in Georgia, Alabama, Tennessee, and South Carolina

Bird pressure in the Southeast is different from cooler climates. Three regional factors increase the bird-control workload:

  • Year-round resident populations. Rock pigeons and house sparrows don’t migrate. They’re a problem all 12 months, not just spring and summer.
  • Long nesting season. Warm spring weather arrives early and lingers into October. House sparrows can produce three to four broods per year here vs. two in northern states.
  • Open construction styles. Many older homes in Atlanta, Birmingham, Savannah, Macon, and Augusta have open soffits, gable vents, and unscreened crawl space vents. Each is a bird entry point.

The good news: the same exclusion approach that stops bird problems also helps with rodents (rats and mice often share entry points with birds), and indirectly with snakes (which follow rodents). For more on the rodent-snake-bird connection, see our snake repellent guide.

Frequently Asked Questions About Getting Rid of Birds

Are birds protected by law?

Yes. The federal Migratory Bird Treaty Act protects more than 1,000 native bird species, making it illegal to disturb their active nests, eggs, or young without specific permits. The three most common Southeast nuisance species (house sparrows, European starlings, rock pigeons) are non-native and not protected. Most native species (swallows, woodpeckers, robins, mockingbirds, blue jays) are protected.

Can I remove a bird nest myself?

It depends on the species and whether the nest is active. For non-protected species (pigeons, sparrows, starlings), you can remove inactive nests yourself, though we recommend wearing gloves and a mask to avoid contact with droppings. For protected species, active nests cannot be removed without proper authorization. The safest approach is to wait until young have fledged before removing the nest, then seal the area to prevent return nesting.

What bird deterrents work best for nesting on the house?

Physical exclusion is the only reliable long-term solution. Bird spikes on landing surfaces, bird-proof vent covers on dryer vents, gable vents, and bathroom vents, netting under solar panels and across open eaves. Visual deterrents and scent repellents can supplement but don’t replace exclusion.

How long does professional bird control take?

For most residential bird problems, professional exclusion can be designed and installed within one to two visits, with follow-up monitoring to confirm birds don’t find a new spot. The exclusion itself typically lasts 10 years or more with minimal maintenance. For larger or more complex situations (commercial properties, large flocks, protected species), the timeline can extend over a full nesting season.

Why are birds nesting in my dryer vent?

Dryer vents are protected from predators, well-insulated, and offer a small enclosed nesting space that’s ideal for house sparrows and starlings. The fix is a bird-proof dryer vent cover that allows lint and exhaust to escape but blocks birds from entering. We see dryer-vent bird nests in about 30% of the Georgia and Alabama bird-control calls we run. It’s one of the most common bird issues in the region.

A pest control technician installing a bird-proof cap on a residential chimney — full exclusion for long-term bird control.

Professional bird control closes the access points DIY can’t reach. That’s the difference between months and years.

Ready to Get Rid of Birds for Good?

If you’ve tried home remedies and the birds keep coming back, the problem isn’t the remedy. It’s the access points and underlying conditions that keep drawing birds to your property. Northwest’s wildlife team handles the full bird-control workflow: species identification, exclusion design and installation, habitat assessment, and legal compliance when protected species are involved.

About the Author

Anna Vaccaro, Editorial Lead — Pest Education leads pest education content for Northwest Exterminating, working with senior technicians and service center managers across our Georgia, Alabama, Tennessee, and South Carolina service areas to translate field expertise into homeowner-friendly guides. The focus: accurate, regionally-specific answers to the pest questions Southeast homeowners are actually searching for.


Where Do Snakes Go In Cold Weather?

Where Do Snakes Go In Cold Weather?

Unlike many warm-blooded animals, snakes don’t actually hibernate in the winter. Instead, snakes go into a state known as brumation where snakes become less active and their metabolism slows down tremendously. Brumation is similar to hibernation in that snakes will sleep for long periods of time. They will, however, wake up to forage for food and water and if a sudden warm snap occurs and temperatures rise for a few days at a time. When the weather cools back down, they will go back into their brumation state once again. Brumation can begin anytime from September to December and last until March or April.

Because snakes are cold-blooded, they can’t regulate their body temperatures like warm-blooded animals can. When cold weather hits, snakes must find shelter from the temperatures by burrowing in holes or caves, under logs or rocks, in tree stumps, or by making their way into basements, crawlspaces, garages, barns, sheds, wood piles, and even car engines. Snakes are very quiet and experts at hiding so their presence often goes unnoticed until they are disturbed.

Now that you know where snakes might be hiding this winter, the next question is how to keep snakes away? Here are some tips on how to prevent snakes from hiding out on your property.

  • Landscape Management:  Rodents are attracted to tall grass and overgrown landscaping. By minimizing these unkempt areas on your property, rodent populations are reduced which, in turn, helps keep snakes who feed on these rodents away. Keep grass mowed and landscaping well maintained. Cut shrubbery regularly and trimmed away from your home and other buildings.
  • Storage: Snakes will look for any area of cover that will protect them from the elements without being disturbed. They will often seek shelter in wood piles or other piles of debris on your property. Make sure that these stacks are kept at least 12″ off the ground and, if possible, stored in sealed containers.
  • Wildlife Exclusion: Snakes can’t chew to create openings into your home so they take advantage of any openings that are already present, such as gaps near pipes, damaged window and door screens, open windows and doors, damaged soffits, crawlspaces that aren’t enclosed, and through cracks in the exterior of buildings. Carefully examine all of your property and seal any potential openings that snakes may utilize.
  • Food Sources: Snakes are known to feed on rodents, lizards, and frogs. Eliminate these pests and you will help eliminate snakes. Get rid of any areas of standing water on your property. Keep landscaping well maintained to deter rodents. Inside your home, make sure to keep areas clean especially kitchens and pantries where spilled food and crumbs are readily available for rodents to feed on.
  • Professional Service: Depending on the species, snake removal can be dangerous to undertake on your own. It is usually in your best interest to contact a professional wildlife control company when dealing with a snake issue. Establishing a regularly scheduled service plan can help identify pest risks before they become an issue. These professionals can also identify any areas where wildlife exclusion services may be beneficial and establish a comprehensive pest control program.

 

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Wildlife Control: Animals to Look Out For This Fall

Wildlife Control: Animals to Look Out For This Fall

Fall is a busy time for wildlife. As the days get shorter and temperatures drop, animals begin their frantic preparations for winter. Fall is a time to stock up on food and find warm places to shelter over the cold winter months. These preparations often lead wildlife into your homes in search of food, warmth, and shelter. There are several common critters that become more active in the autumn months. Here are some of the most common along with ways to prevent them from taking up residence in your home.

Rodents

Rodent
Rodents such as rats and mice will often seek shelter in your home because it provides them with a readily available food supply throughout the winter. You will begin to hear their activity in the walls and attic in the fall as they start storing food in their nests. You can prevent rodents by:

  • Sealing up holes inside and outside the home
  • Trapping rodents around the home to help reduce the rodent population
  • Storing food in plastic or metal containers with tight lids
  • Cleaning up spilled food immediately and washing dishes soon after use
  • Storing pet food in sealed containers and not leaving them out overnight
  • Keeping compost bins as far away from the house as possible

Raccoons

Raccoon
Raccoons are nocturnal creatures that hunt for food at night. They start to “fatten up” in the fall in preparation for the cold winter months with a scarce food supply. This makes them more active and more creative in their search for food – often leading them to your trash cans and home. Raccoons will often enter your home via the roof and are known to seek shelter in attics and crawlspaces. You can prevent raccoons by:

  • Installing fences around your yard and garden areas
  • Install bright exterior lights to deter them from your yard at night
  • Keep trash in cans with secure, locking lids
  • Seal any entry points on the exterior of your home
  • Rinse out trash cans once a month to help eliminate odors
  • Spray down trash bags with ammonia to help cover up the trash smell

Squirrels

Squirrel
Like raccoons, squirrels also like to “fatten up” in the fall as they get ready for the cold months of winter. Squirrels will often seek shelter in attics where they will make their nests and store their food. Squirrels are especially hazardous in homes because of their tendency to chew through wood and wires, creating the potential for significant and costly damage to your house. You can prevent squirrels by:

  • Keeping bags of seed sealed and stored high on shelves
  • Rake up and dispose of any seeds or leaves that fall from trees
  • Take down bird feeders in the fall as squirrels love to scavenge these for seed
  • Don’t leave pet food and water out overnight
  • Trim back any limbs or branches that extend within 10 feet of your home
  • Install chimney caps or screens

Chipmunks

Chipmunk
Chipmunks behave very similarly to squirrels with one exception – they will burrow in your yard instead of nesting in your home. Chipmunks build burrows in areas where they can easily access food during the winter. Chipmunks eat the same diet as squirrels including seeds, nuts, berries, grubs, and roots. Chipmunk burrows can cause serious damage to your yard. You can prevent chipmunks by:

  • Consider installing fencing that is at least 8 inches deep around your yard, garden, or your entire property
  • Make sure any exterior holes in your home are sealed
  • Cover chimneys, vents, and pipes with mesh covers
  • Clean up any leaves, nuts, or fruit that fall from trees as soon as possible
  • Take bird feeders down in the fall and clean up any spilled birdseed daily
  • Keep landscaping mowed and trimmed back

Bats

Bat
Bats will roost once temperatures dip below 45 degrees Fahrenheit. While some species will migrate south once the weather cools off, others will hibernate until spring. They will search for warm, dark spaces to roost that are hidden from predators but still easy for them to access. Unfortunately, they will often make their roosts in the attic or chimney of your home. You can prevent bats by:

  • Ensuring the attic is well sealed
  • Checking insulation to make sure it isn’t worn down
  • Installing chimney screens
  • Sealing any openings in shingles and weatherstripping
  • Use window screens and draft guards on doors and windows that go into the attic

Wildlife removal can be difficult and is oftentimes best left to a professional. If you suspect you have a problem with wildlife, contact a professional wildlife control company who can inspect your home to identify your animal problem, determine where they are getting in, remove them, and prevent the animals from getting into your home in the future.

 

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Fact or Fiction: Rats Can Make You Sick

Fact or Fiction: Rats Can Make You Sick

FACT. Rats are one of the most common pest issues homeowners face. Rats are known for being destructive by gnawing on structures in and around your home including utility pipes, wood structures, and wiring. In addition to the structural damage rats can cause, it is also possible for rats to pose serious health risks to humans. Diseases caused by rats can be transmitted through bites or scratches. Rat feces illness can be transmitted to humans through rat droppings and urine left around your home. Humans can also get sick through contaminated food caused by rats running across countertops where food is later prepared.

Just how sick can rats make you? Here are some common rat-borne diseases found in the United States.

Hantavirus Pulmonary Syndrome

Hantavirus pulmonary syndrome is a viral illness spread by deer mice, cotton rats, rice rats, and white-footed mice. HPS is spread by direct contact with rodents or their urine and feces, by breathing in dust contaminated with urine or droppings, or by bite wounds. Symptoms in the first phase of the virus include fatigue, fever, muscle aches, headache, dizziness, chills, nausea, vomiting, and abdominal pain. The symptoms then progress to coughing and shortness of breath. HPS is a severe and sometimes fatal respiratory disease with a 38% mortality rate. There is no specific treatment, cure, or vaccine for hantavirus infection.

Leptospirosis

Leptospirosis is a bacterial disease spread by rodents worldwide by either eating or drinking food and water contaminated with urine or contact through the skin or mucous membranes with water or soil that is contaminated with urine. Without treatment, leptospirosis can lead to kidney damage, meningitis (inflammation of the membrane around the brain and spinal cord), liver failure, respiratory distress, and even death. Common symptoms include fever, chills, headache, muscle aches, abdominal pain, vomiting, jaundice, diarrhea, and rash. The symptoms are often mistaken for other illnesses. If not treated, the second phase of symptoms includes kidney or liver failure or meningitis. The disease lasts between 1 and 3 weeks. Leptospirosis is treated with antibiotics.

Rat-Bite Fever

Rat-bite fever is a bacterial illness spread by rats and possibly mice. The disease occurs worldwide and is spread through bites or scratches from an infected rodent, contact with a dead rodent, or eating or drinking food and water that is contaminated by rat feces. If not treated, RBF can be a serious or even fatal disease. RBF is not spread from one person to another. The early symptoms of RBF can be similar to the symptoms of other medical conditions. Common symptoms include fever, headache, muscle pain, headaches, vomiting, joint pain, and rash. If the illness progresses, more severe complication can arise such as abscesses, hepatitis, kidney infections, pneumonia, meningitis, or infections in the heart. RBF is treated with antibiotics.

Salmonellosis

Salmonellosis is a bacterial disease found worldwide that is spread by rats and mice. Salmonellosis is spread through eating or drinking food and water that is contaminated by rat feces. Salmonellosis is an infection caused by the Salmonella bacteria. Although commonly spread when a person eats contaminated food, the bacteria also can be passed between people and animals. Common symptoms include diarrhea, vomiting, fever, and abdominal cramps. Salmonella infections in people usually resolve within 5-7 days, and most do not require treatment other than drinking plenty of fluids. People with severe diarrhea may need to spend time in a hospital getting rehydrated with intravenous fluids.

Rat-borne diseases can cause serious and sometimes fatal illnesses in humans. The best way to avoid these diseases is to prevent rats from infesting your home in the first place. Here are some common home rat prevention tips:

  • Put A Lid On Your Trash: If possible, use trashcans made of metal with snug fitting lids. If you must use plastic, make sure there are no holes in it.
  • Don’t Leave Pet Food Out: Store pet food and birdseed in glass or metal containers with tight lids. Make sure to remove them at night and store them away until morning. Make sure to pick up any fallen fruit or nuts off the ground outside your home, as well. Remove standing water from bird feeders.
  • Elevate Your Compost: Raise your compost container at least 1 foot off the ground.
  • Keep Your Garage Clean: Rodents like to eat lawn seed, tulip bulbs, bone meal, and other items frequently used in gardening. Make sure they are stored in glass or metal containers with tight lids. Keep firewood a good distance from the house. Organize and store boxes in the garage off the ground to eliminate nesting places.
  • Clean The Kitchen: Keep food stored in tightly sealed containers. Clean up spilled food and crumbs nightly.
  • Keep Your Home Maintained: Make sure openings around your home are properly sealed. Keep your gutters clear of debris and water. Screen your attic vents. Keep screens on windows and doors in good repair and replace when needed.
  • Call A Pro: If you suspect you have a rodent problem, call a professional pest control company or a professional wildlife removal company who can evaluate your home and provide you with a comprehensive treatment and exclusion plan.

Request a Free Wildlife Control Estimate

 

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