Jan 10, 2020 | DIY, DIY Wildlife Prevention, Wildlife
By Anna V., Editorial Lead — Pest Education · Last updated: May 2026
Birds are great when they’re in trees. They’re a problem when they’re nesting in your dryer vent, leaving droppings down your siding, or waking you up at 5 AM with constant chirping above your bedroom ceiling. If you’re searching for how to get rid of birds safely and effectively, you’re in the right place. At Northwest, we run bird control calls year-round across our Georgia, Alabama, Tennessee, and South Carolina service area, and the question we hear most often is some version of: I tried [home remedy]. Why are they still here?
Video Transcript
Some birds are beautiful to watch, but when they start nesting on your home, the damage and mess can add up fast.
Droppings can carry disease. Nests can clog vents and chimneys, and addicts can quickly become unwanted bird hangouts.
Here are three smart ways to keep birds from moving in. First, remove what attracts them. Birds come for easy food and water. Keep grass trimmed to reduce insects. Store pet food in sealed containers and eliminate standing water whenever possible. Second, make surfaces uncomfortable. Shiny objects like foil strips or pie plates reflect light and scare birds away.
Double-sided tape or baking soda on ledges and railings can stop perching almost immediately. Third, maintain your yard and know the rules. Trim trees and shrubs, but never remove an active nest. Laws protect many birds. When you’re ready to call a professional for a peaceful home, feel free to reach out to our team at Northwest Exterminating.
Here’s a realistic look at what works, what doesn’t, and what’s legally required when birds set up shop on your house. Plus what to do when DIY isn’t enough.
A bird nest in a dryer vent is more than a nuisance. It blocks airflow, traps lint, and creates a real fire hazard.
Why Birds Become a Problem on Homes
Birds don’t pick houses at random. They show up because the conditions are good for them, and they stay because nothing changes. Three things draw birds to a Southeast home and keep them coming back:
Shelter and nesting spots. Rooflines, gutters, eaves, attic vents, gable vents, dryer vents, soffits, and any small protected cavity make ideal nesting sites. Pigeons, sparrows, and starlings are all cavity-nesters, which is why they end up inside vents rather than building open nests in trees.
Food sources. Pet food on a porch, fallen fruit under a tree, accessible trash, breadcrumbs after outdoor meals, insects on a sunlit wall, and (less obviously) bird feeders that overflow are all reasons birds keep returning.
Warmth and safety from predators. Attics, soffits, and vents offer protection from hawks, owls, snakes, and other natural threats. From a bird’s perspective, your house is a five-star nesting hotel.
The common results homeowners deal with:
- Loud chirping and early morning noise during nesting season (March through August)
- Droppings on patios, siding, walkways, and driveways
- Clogged gutters and blocked vents
- Damage to roofing, insulation, and exterior surfaces
- Dryer vent fires (a real and dangerous risk when bird nests block airflow)
Common Birds That Cause Problems Around Southeast Homes
Across Georgia, Alabama, Tennessee, and South Carolina, the bird species we encounter most often on residential bird control calls are:
- Rock pigeons. Common on roofs, ledges, and around commercial buildings. Heavy droppings, persistent return behavior. Non-native, not protected.
- House sparrows. Small but persistent. Frequently nest in vents, eaves, and small structural openings. Aggressive about defending nest sites. Non-native, not protected.
- European starlings. Often in large flocks. Heavy nesting in cavities and vents, noisy, leave significant droppings. Non-native, not protected.
- Barn and cliff swallows. Build mud nests on the underside of eaves, porches, and overhangs. Protected by federal law — active nest disturbance requires special handling.
- Woodpeckers. Damage cedar siding and trim with drumming and excavation. Most species are federally protected.
- Robins, mockingbirds, blue jays. Less commonly nest on homes but occasionally do in shrubs against the siding. All federally protected.
Knowing the species matters because the three most common nuisance birds (pigeons, sparrows, starlings) can be handled with standard control approaches, while protected native species require a different approach.
Do Home Remedies Really Get Rid of Birds?
Short answer: sometimes, briefly. Most home remedies provide short-term relief before birds adapt and return. Birds are smart and pattern-recognize quickly. Within a few weeks of installing any single deterrent, most birds figure out it’s not actually a threat.
If you’re dealing with a recurring issue (birds nesting on your house, a bird problem on your roof, droppings that won’t quit), DIY methods alone usually won’t solve the problem long-term. The reason is structural: birds keep returning because the underlying conditions (food, water, shelter, easy access) haven’t changed.
5 Common Home Remedies to Keep Birds Away — Honest Effectiveness
DIY methods buy you weeks. Professional exclusion buys you a decade.
Here’s a realistic look at the five home remedies most homeowners try first, with pros, cons, and effectiveness ratings.
1. Reflective Objects (Foil Strips, Old CDs, Mirrors)
How it works: Light reflection startles birds. Pros: Low cost, easy to set up. Cons: Birds habituate within two to four weeks if not rotated. Effectiveness: Low to moderate for short-term arrivals. Improves significantly if you rotate the reflective objects weekly.
2. Strong Scents (Peppermint, Vinegar, Cayenne Spray)
How it works: Strong-smelling compounds are meant to repel birds. Pros: Cheap, “natural.” Cons: Limited research support, fades within days outdoors, washes out in rain, can damage plants and paint. Effectiveness: Low. Treat as a supplement at best, not a primary method.
3. Fake Predators (Plastic Owls, Hawks, Snake Decoys)
How it works: Mimics natural threats. Pros: Can work briefly, especially right after installation. Cons: Birds recognize they’re not real if they don’t move. A plastic owl in the same spot for two weeks becomes a perch. Effectiveness: Low if static, moderate if moved every 3 to 5 days.
4. Wind Deterrents (Spinners, Streamers, Pinwheels)
How it works: Movement and unpredictability create discomfort. Pros: More effective than static visual deterrents because there’s actual motion. Cons: Still loses effectiveness over time as birds get used to predictable patterns. Effectiveness: Moderate. Better than static options, especially when combined with rotation.
5. Sound Deterrents (Ultrasonic Devices, Distress Calls)
How it works: Noise discomfort or simulated alarm calls. Pros: Can disrupt initial nesting attempts. Cons: Ultrasonic effectiveness is questionable in independent testing. Audible distress calls work better but disturb your neighbors. Effectiveness: Low to moderate. Better suited for commercial buildings than residential settings.
Bottom line on home remedies: they can buy you a few weeks. They rarely stop nesting attempts long-term, and they almost never address why birds came to your house in the first place.
Why DIY Bird Deterrents Often Don’t Last
Three reasons DIY bird control fails over the long term:
- Birds adapt fast. Within a week or two of any new deterrent, birds figure out it’s not actually a threat. Habituation is the biggest enemy of all DIY methods.
- Nesting instincts override discomfort. During breeding season (March through August in the Southeast), birds will tolerate significant nuisance to defend a good nesting site. Annoying them isn’t enough.
- Entry points stay open. Most DIY methods don’t seal the access points birds use. As long as the dryer vent is open, the gable vent is unscreened, or the soffit gap exists, birds keep returning.
For deeper analysis of which DIY bird deterrent methods work and how to maximize their effectiveness, see our companion guide on 5 DIY bird deterrents that actually work.
When Bird Problems Become a Bigger Issue
What starts as a few birds on the roof can escalate into serious problems if ignored.
Health Concerns
Bird droppings can carry pathogens including histoplasmosis (a respiratory illness from fungal spores in dried droppings), salmonella, and E. coli. Most healthy adults aren’t at significant risk, but people with respiratory conditions or compromised immune systems should avoid disturbing dried droppings without proper protection.
Property Damage
Bird droppings are acidic and damage paint, siding, decking, and concrete over time. Nests clog gutters, block vents, and damage roofing materials. Cumulative damage from a long-term bird problem can run into thousands of dollars in repairs.
Fire Hazards
Dry nesting materials in dryer vents are one of the more dangerous bird-related issues. Lint that can’t escape through a blocked vent builds up against hot dryer ducts, and a small spark inside the dryer can ignite the material. Dryer vent fires cause an estimated 2,900 home fires annually in the U.S. (per the National Fire Protection Association). A bird nest in the vent significantly raises that risk.
Legal Concerns
The federal Migratory Bird Treaty Act of 1918 protects more than 1,000 native bird species. It’s illegal to disturb their active nests, eggs, or young without specific permits. The penalty for violations can exceed $15,000 per offense. For the three most common Southeast nuisance species (pigeons, sparrows, starlings), this isn’t a concern. For native species (swallows, woodpeckers, robins, mockingbirds), removing an active nest without proper authorization is a federal offense.
This is one of the reasons we recommend professional bird control whenever protected species are involved. We work within the legal framework and time removals to be both effective and compliant.
The Most Effective Way to Get Rid of Birds: Humane Exclusion
The gold standard for bird control is exclusion: making your property physically unable to host birds in the spots they want to use. Exclusion includes:
- Bird spikes installed along ledges, gutter edges, rooflines, and HVAC equipment housings to prevent landing.
- Bird netting stretched across eaves, soffit openings, and under solar panels to block nesting access.
- Vent and roofline covers on dryer vents, bathroom vents, gable vents, and attic vents. Bird-proof vent covers allow normal airflow while blocking bird entry.
- Chimney caps with appropriate mesh to keep birds out of chimneys (also keeps out raccoons, squirrels, bats, and snakes).
- Habitat modification around the property to remove food, water, and shelter that draws birds in the first place.
- Humane nest removal when legally permitted, timed to avoid breeding season disruption.
Exclusion done right typically lasts 10+ years with minimal maintenance. It’s also the only approach that addresses the root cause rather than the symptom.
Bird-proof vent covers and roofline exclusion fix the access points DIY deterrents can’t reach.
DIY vs Professional Bird Control
The honest comparison:
DIY home remedies work well for early-stage problems — a few birds scouting, no active nests, recent arrivals. Cost is low. Effectiveness lasts weeks to a few months. Effort is ongoing (rotating deterrents, replacing materials, monitoring).
Store-bought deterrents (DIY-installed spikes, netting kits, ultrasonic devices) work better than home remedies and last longer. Cost is moderate. Installation matters significantly — poor installation creates gaps birds exploit.
Professional bird control handles established problems, protected species, large flocks, and hard-to-reach locations. Cost is higher upfront. Effectiveness lasts 10+ years with minimal follow-up. Legal compliance is built in. Northwest’s bird control service handles species identification, exclusion design and installation, habitat assessment, nest removal (when legal), and follow-up monitoring.
Bird Problems in Georgia, Alabama, Tennessee, and South Carolina
Bird pressure in the Southeast is different from cooler climates. Three regional factors increase the bird-control workload:
- Year-round resident populations. Rock pigeons and house sparrows don’t migrate. They’re a problem all 12 months, not just spring and summer.
- Long nesting season. Warm spring weather arrives early and lingers into October. House sparrows can produce three to four broods per year here vs. two in northern states.
- Open construction styles. Many older homes in Atlanta, Birmingham, Savannah, Macon, and Augusta have open soffits, gable vents, and unscreened crawl space vents. Each is a bird entry point.
The good news: the same exclusion approach that stops bird problems also helps with rodents (rats and mice often share entry points with birds), and indirectly with snakes (which follow rodents). For more on the rodent-snake-bird connection, see our snake repellent guide.
Frequently Asked Questions About Getting Rid of Birds
Are birds protected by law?
Yes. The federal Migratory Bird Treaty Act protects more than 1,000 native bird species, making it illegal to disturb their active nests, eggs, or young without specific permits. The three most common Southeast nuisance species (house sparrows, European starlings, rock pigeons) are non-native and not protected. Most native species (swallows, woodpeckers, robins, mockingbirds, blue jays) are protected.
Can I remove a bird nest myself?
It depends on the species and whether the nest is active. For non-protected species (pigeons, sparrows, starlings), you can remove inactive nests yourself, though we recommend wearing gloves and a mask to avoid contact with droppings. For protected species, active nests cannot be removed without proper authorization. The safest approach is to wait until young have fledged before removing the nest, then seal the area to prevent return nesting.
What bird deterrents work best for nesting on the house?
Physical exclusion is the only reliable long-term solution. Bird spikes on landing surfaces, bird-proof vent covers on dryer vents, gable vents, and bathroom vents, netting under solar panels and across open eaves. Visual deterrents and scent repellents can supplement but don’t replace exclusion.
How long does professional bird control take?
For most residential bird problems, professional exclusion can be designed and installed within one to two visits, with follow-up monitoring to confirm birds don’t find a new spot. The exclusion itself typically lasts 10 years or more with minimal maintenance. For larger or more complex situations (commercial properties, large flocks, protected species), the timeline can extend over a full nesting season.
Why are birds nesting in my dryer vent?
Dryer vents are protected from predators, well-insulated, and offer a small enclosed nesting space that’s ideal for house sparrows and starlings. The fix is a bird-proof dryer vent cover that allows lint and exhaust to escape but blocks birds from entering. We see dryer-vent bird nests in about 30% of the Georgia and Alabama bird-control calls we run. It’s one of the most common bird issues in the region.
Professional bird control closes the access points DIY can’t reach. That’s the difference between months and years.
Ready to Get Rid of Birds for Good?
If you’ve tried home remedies and the birds keep coming back, the problem isn’t the remedy. It’s the access points and underlying conditions that keep drawing birds to your property. Northwest’s wildlife team handles the full bird-control workflow: species identification, exclusion design and installation, habitat assessment, and legal compliance when protected species are involved.
About the Author
Anna Vaccaro, Editorial Lead — Pest Education leads pest education content for Northwest Exterminating, working with senior technicians and service center managers across our Georgia, Alabama, Tennessee, and South Carolina service areas to translate field expertise into homeowner-friendly guides. The focus: accurate, regionally-specific answers to the pest questions Southeast homeowners are actually searching for.
Nov 8, 2019 | Wildlife
Nesting birds can cause much more damage than one may realize, making bird nest removal a top priority for some homeowners. But why would birds want to build their nests so close to humans? Nesting near, in, or on homes actually provides birds with protection from dangerous predators and helps protect them from extreme temperatures in the environment. Birds will build their nests anywhere that fits the criteria they are looking for. They prefer to nest at higher locations so they can survey the area around them for potential predators while keeping their nests relatively hidden. Bird nests can be found just about anywhere on or around your home. In fact, small birds will even nest in gaps in siding, behind shutters, or even on light fixtures.
So a bird built a nest on your home. Is that bird’s nest dangerous? They can be! Bird droppings contain acid that can corrode metal and concrete and even damage car paint. Debris from nests and bird feathers can clog drains and gutters leading to moisture issues. When nests are built in dryer, fan, or stove vents, they can cause clogs that restrict air flow, cause lint to buildup, and significantly increase the risk of fire. Nests that are built inside attics can cause damage to insulation.
Besides the physical damage to your home, bird nests can also cause health issues for humans. Birds carry pathogens that can be dangerous to the health of you and your family. Nests also contain bird droppings which can carry all sorts of bacteria and other pathogens like histoplasmosis. Nests can also contain parasites, ticks, mites, and other pests that can remain long after birds have vacated a nest.
There are also several federal, regional, and local laws and regulations that restrict or prohibit the relocation, removal, or destruction of bird nests. Without knowing for certain what species of bird has inhabited your home, bird nest removal could be considered illegal and put you at risk for legal ramifications.
The best way to get rid of bird nests is to prevent them from being built in the first place. Here are some steps you can take at home to help prevent birds from nesting in, on, or near your home.
- Eliminate food sources. Birds often nest near homes because they provide an ample supply of food without having to travel far from their nests. Remove food scraps and trash from around your home. Make sure your trash containers are sealed tightly. Keep bird feeders and baths farther out in your yard and only fill them with enough feed for a few birds at a time. Make sure to clean up any spilled birdseed regularly.
- Keep it covered. Birds are notorious for building nests in dryer vents, fan vents, stove vents, and chimneys. Install covers or screens over any open vents. You can also install chimney caps on chimneys. Seal any gaps in siding and shutters.
- Scare them away. Consider installing perch repellents on window sills, ledges, and around the perimeter of your roof. These spikes will prevent birds from alighting on these areas. Consider placing plastic predators like coyotes, snakes, owls, and hawks) on your porch and around your yard. These will spook birds away from your home. Make sure to move them around periodically so the birds don’t get used to them being there. You can also use visual hanging repellents on your porches.
Due to the laws and regulations surrounding bird nest removal and bird protection, it is usually best to call a professional wildlife exclusion company to handle any bird nest issues you may have. These bird control professionals can properly identify the species of bird nesting at your home and properly, humanely, and legally remove it or relocate it from your property.
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Oct 18, 2019 | Wildlife
Unlike many warm-blooded animals, snakes don’t actually hibernate in the winter. Instead, snakes go into a state known as brumation where snakes become less active and their metabolism slows down tremendously. Brumation is similar to hibernation in that snakes will sleep for long periods of time. They will, however, wake up to forage for food and water and if a sudden warm snap occurs and temperatures rise for a few days at a time. When the weather cools back down, they will go back into their brumation state once again. Brumation can begin anytime from September to December and last until March or April.
Because snakes are cold-blooded, they can’t regulate their body temperatures like warm-blooded animals can. When cold weather hits, snakes must find shelter from the temperatures by burrowing in holes or caves, under logs or rocks, in tree stumps, or by making their way into basements, crawlspaces, garages, barns, sheds, wood piles, and even car engines. Snakes are very quiet and experts at hiding so their presence often goes unnoticed until they are disturbed.
Now that you know where snakes might be hiding this winter, the next question is how to keep snakes away? Here are some tips on how to prevent snakes from hiding out on your property.
- Landscape Management: Rodents are attracted to tall grass and overgrown landscaping. By minimizing these unkempt areas on your property, rodent populations are reduced which, in turn, helps keep snakes who feed on these rodents away. Keep grass mowed and landscaping well maintained. Cut shrubbery regularly and trimmed away from your home and other buildings.
- Storage: Snakes will look for any area of cover that will protect them from the elements without being disturbed. They will often seek shelter in wood piles or other piles of debris on your property. Make sure that these stacks are kept at least 12″ off the ground and, if possible, stored in sealed containers.
- Wildlife Exclusion: Snakes can’t chew to create openings into your home so they take advantage of any openings that are already present, such as gaps near pipes, damaged window and door screens, open windows and doors, damaged soffits, crawlspaces that aren’t enclosed, and through cracks in the exterior of buildings. Carefully examine all of your property and seal any potential openings that snakes may utilize.
- Food Sources: Snakes are known to feed on rodents, lizards, and frogs. Eliminate these pests and you will help eliminate snakes. Get rid of any areas of standing water on your property. Keep landscaping well maintained to deter rodents. Inside your home, make sure to keep areas clean especially kitchens and pantries where spilled food and crumbs are readily available for rodents to feed on.
- Professional Service: Depending on the species, snake removal can be dangerous to undertake on your own. It is usually in your best interest to contact a professional wildlife control company when dealing with a snake issue. Establishing a regularly scheduled service plan can help identify pest risks before they become an issue. These professionals can also identify any areas where wildlife exclusion services may be beneficial and establish a comprehensive pest control program.
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Sep 27, 2019 | Pest Control, Wildlife
Signs of a rodent infestation are pretty easy to spot – droppings in the house, chew marks, gnawed wood, and scratching and squealing sounds at night are all pretty good indicators of a rodent problem. Before deciding on a course of treatment, however, the first step is determining which type of rodent you have. So how do you know if you have a rat or a mouse?
Mice:
Mice are small rodents, usually about 2 to 4″ in length, with thin, long, slightly hairy tails. They have triangular shaped noses with long whiskers and large floppy ears. Mice can be brown, gray, or white in color. Mice droppings are small and smooth with pointed ends, usually about 1/8 to 1/4″ in length. They leave anywhere from 40 to 100 droppings per day. Mice prefer cereal grains or plants but will eat almost anything. They are nocturnal and tend to be bolder than rats. They are curious and will explore new things, making them easier to trap. They are skillful climbers and their small size allows them to access more areas of your home.
Norway Rats:
Norway rats are larger rodents, usually weighing about 11 ounces and measuring 7 to 9 inches in length. They have heavy, thick bodies that are brown in color with black shading and shaggy coats. Norway rats have blunt, rounded noses and short ears. Their tails are thick, hairless, and scaly and are dark colored on top and pale underneath. Norway rat droppings are brown and blunt on both ends and they leave anywhere from 20 to 50 droppings per day. They prefer fresh grains and meat but will eat just about anything. These rats typically live in burrows and prefer lower levels of homes and buildings. Norway rats are nocturnal and are more fearful and cautious than mice, making them more difficult to trap. They can climb but prefer to stay closer to the ground.
Roof Rats:
Roof rats are smaller than Norway rats, weighing about 7 ounces. They have light, slender bodies that are gray in color with smooth coats. They have thick, hairless, scaly tails that are dark in color. Roof rats have pointed snouts with large ears. Roof rat droppings are dark with both ends pointed. They will also eat just about anything but prefer fresh grains and meat. They are nocturnal and timid in nature. Because of this, they can be difficult to trap. They are excellent climbers and are more often found nesting in walls, attics, and trees.
Rodent Control:
Regardless of whether you have mice, Norway rats, or roof rats, all of these rodent species can cause damage to your home and property by chewing through wires, pipes, insulation, and drywall. They can also cause damage to furniture and carpets. All rodents can contaminate food and countertops. Serious diseases caused by rat droppings and mouse droppings include Hantavirus, salmonellosis, and more. They all reproduce quickly and a minor problem can become a major infestation in no time.
Keeping these pests out of your home is critical to helping protect the safety of both your family and your property. Here are some rodent control tips you can implement in and around your home:
- Put A Lid On Your Trash: If possible, use trashcans made of metal with snug fitting lids. If you must use plastic, make sure there are no holes in it.
- Don’t Leave Pet Food Out: Store pet food and birdseed in glass or metal containers with tight lids. Make sure to remove them at night and store them away until morning. Make sure to pick up any fallen fruit or nuts off the ground outside your home, as well. Remove standing water from bird feeders.
- Elevate Your Compost: Raise your compost container at least 1 foot off the ground.
- Keep Your Garage Clean: Rodents like to eat lawn seed, tulip bulbs, bone meal, and other items frequently used in gardening. Make sure they are stored in glass or metal containers with tight lids. Keep firewood a good distance from the house. Organize and store boxes in the garage off the ground to eliminate nesting places.
- Clean The Kitchen: Keep food stored in tightly sealed containers. Clean up spilled food and crumbs nightly.
- Keep Your Home Maintained: Make sure openings around your home are properly sealed. Keep your gutters clear of debris and water. Screen your attic vents. Keep screens on windows and doors in good repair and replace when needed.
- Call A Pro: If you suspect you have a rodent problem, call a professional pest control company or a professional wildlife removal company who can evaluate your home and provide you with a comprehensive treatment and exclusion plan.
Sep 21, 2019 | Wildlife
Fall is a busy time for wildlife. As the days get shorter and temperatures drop, animals begin their frantic preparations for winter. Fall is a time to stock up on food and find warm places to shelter over the cold winter months. These preparations often lead wildlife into your homes in search of food, warmth, and shelter. There are several common critters that become more active in the autumn months. Here are some of the most common along with ways to prevent them from taking up residence in your home.
Rodents
Rodents such as rats and mice will often seek shelter in your home because it provides them with a readily available food supply throughout the winter. You will begin to hear their activity in the walls and attic in the fall as they start storing food in their nests. You can prevent rodents by:
- Sealing up holes inside and outside the home
- Trapping rodents around the home to help reduce the rodent population
- Storing food in plastic or metal containers with tight lids
- Cleaning up spilled food immediately and washing dishes soon after use
- Storing pet food in sealed containers and not leaving them out overnight
- Keeping compost bins as far away from the house as possible
Raccoons
Raccoons are nocturnal creatures that hunt for food at night. They start to “fatten up” in the fall in preparation for the cold winter months with a scarce food supply. This makes them more active and more creative in their search for food – often leading them to your trash cans and home. Raccoons will often enter your home via the roof and are known to seek shelter in attics and crawlspaces. You can prevent raccoons by:
- Installing fences around your yard and garden areas
- Install bright exterior lights to deter them from your yard at night
- Keep trash in cans with secure, locking lids
- Seal any entry points on the exterior of your home
- Rinse out trash cans once a month to help eliminate odors
- Spray down trash bags with ammonia to help cover up the trash smell
Squirrels
Like raccoons, squirrels also like to “fatten up” in the fall as they get ready for the cold months of winter. Squirrels will often seek shelter in attics where they will make their nests and store their food. Squirrels are especially hazardous in homes because of their tendency to chew through wood and wires, creating the potential for significant and costly damage to your house. You can prevent squirrels by:
- Keeping bags of seed sealed and stored high on shelves
- Rake up and dispose of any seeds or leaves that fall from trees
- Take down bird feeders in the fall as squirrels love to scavenge these for seed
- Don’t leave pet food and water out overnight
- Trim back any limbs or branches that extend within 10 feet of your home
- Install chimney caps or screens
Chipmunks
Chipmunks behave very similarly to squirrels with one exception – they will burrow in your yard instead of nesting in your home. Chipmunks build burrows in areas where they can easily access food during the winter. Chipmunks eat the same diet as squirrels including seeds, nuts, berries, grubs, and roots. Chipmunk burrows can cause serious damage to your yard. You can prevent chipmunks by:
- Consider installing fencing that is at least 8 inches deep around your yard, garden, or your entire property
- Make sure any exterior holes in your home are sealed
- Cover chimneys, vents, and pipes with mesh covers
- Clean up any leaves, nuts, or fruit that fall from trees as soon as possible
- Take bird feeders down in the fall and clean up any spilled birdseed daily
- Keep landscaping mowed and trimmed back
Bats
Bats will roost once temperatures dip below 45 degrees Fahrenheit. While some species will migrate south once the weather cools off, others will hibernate until spring. They will search for warm, dark spaces to roost that are hidden from predators but still easy for them to access. Unfortunately, they will often make their roosts in the attic or chimney of your home. You can prevent bats by:
- Ensuring the attic is well sealed
- Checking insulation to make sure it isn’t worn down
- Installing chimney screens
- Sealing any openings in shingles and weatherstripping
- Use window screens and draft guards on doors and windows that go into the attic
Wildlife removal can be difficult and is oftentimes best left to a professional. If you suspect you have a problem with wildlife, contact a professional wildlife control company who can inspect your home to identify your animal problem, determine where they are getting in, remove them, and prevent the animals from getting into your home in the future.
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Jul 31, 2019 | Pest Control, Wildlife
FACT. Rats are one of the most common pest issues homeowners face. Rats are known for being destructive by gnawing on structures in and around your home including utility pipes, wood structures, and wiring. In addition to the structural damage rats can cause, it is also possible for rats to pose serious health risks to humans. Diseases caused by rats can be transmitted through bites or scratches. Rat feces illness can be transmitted to humans through rat droppings and urine left around your home. Humans can also get sick through contaminated food caused by rats running across countertops where food is later prepared.
Just how sick can rats make you? Here are some common rat-borne diseases found in the United States.
Hantavirus Pulmonary Syndrome
Hantavirus pulmonary syndrome is a viral illness spread by deer mice, cotton rats, rice rats, and white-footed mice. HPS is spread by direct contact with rodents or their urine and feces, by breathing in dust contaminated with urine or droppings, or by bite wounds. Symptoms in the first phase of the virus include fatigue, fever, muscle aches, headache, dizziness, chills, nausea, vomiting, and abdominal pain. The symptoms then progress to coughing and shortness of breath. HPS is a severe and sometimes fatal respiratory disease with a 38% mortality rate. There is no specific treatment, cure, or vaccine for hantavirus infection.
Leptospirosis
Leptospirosis is a bacterial disease spread by rodents worldwide by either eating or drinking food and water contaminated with urine or contact through the skin or mucous membranes with water or soil that is contaminated with urine. Without treatment, leptospirosis can lead to kidney damage, meningitis (inflammation of the membrane around the brain and spinal cord), liver failure, respiratory distress, and even death. Common symptoms include fever, chills, headache, muscle aches, abdominal pain, vomiting, jaundice, diarrhea, and rash. The symptoms are often mistaken for other illnesses. If not treated, the second phase of symptoms includes kidney or liver failure or meningitis. The disease lasts between 1 and 3 weeks. Leptospirosis is treated with antibiotics.
Rat-Bite Fever
Rat-bite fever is a bacterial illness spread by rats and possibly mice. The disease occurs worldwide and is spread through bites or scratches from an infected rodent, contact with a dead rodent, or eating or drinking food and water that is contaminated by rat feces. If not treated, RBF can be a serious or even fatal disease. RBF is not spread from one person to another. The early symptoms of RBF can be similar to the symptoms of other medical conditions. Common symptoms include fever, headache, muscle pain, headaches, vomiting, joint pain, and rash. If the illness progresses, more severe complication can arise such as abscesses, hepatitis, kidney infections, pneumonia, meningitis, or infections in the heart. RBF is treated with antibiotics.
Salmonellosis
Salmonellosis is a bacterial disease found worldwide that is spread by rats and mice. Salmonellosis is spread through eating or drinking food and water that is contaminated by rat feces. Salmonellosis is an infection caused by the Salmonella bacteria. Although commonly spread when a person eats contaminated food, the bacteria also can be passed between people and animals. Common symptoms include diarrhea, vomiting, fever, and abdominal cramps. Salmonella infections in people usually resolve within 5-7 days, and most do not require treatment other than drinking plenty of fluids. People with severe diarrhea may need to spend time in a hospital getting rehydrated with intravenous fluids.
Rat-borne diseases can cause serious and sometimes fatal illnesses in humans. The best way to avoid these diseases is to prevent rats from infesting your home in the first place. Here are some common home rat prevention tips:
- Put A Lid On Your Trash: If possible, use trashcans made of metal with snug fitting lids. If you must use plastic, make sure there are no holes in it.
- Don’t Leave Pet Food Out: Store pet food and birdseed in glass or metal containers with tight lids. Make sure to remove them at night and store them away until morning. Make sure to pick up any fallen fruit or nuts off the ground outside your home, as well. Remove standing water from bird feeders.
- Elevate Your Compost: Raise your compost container at least 1 foot off the ground.
- Keep Your Garage Clean: Rodents like to eat lawn seed, tulip bulbs, bone meal, and other items frequently used in gardening. Make sure they are stored in glass or metal containers with tight lids. Keep firewood a good distance from the house. Organize and store boxes in the garage off the ground to eliminate nesting places.
- Clean The Kitchen: Keep food stored in tightly sealed containers. Clean up spilled food and crumbs nightly.
- Keep Your Home Maintained: Make sure openings around your home are properly sealed. Keep your gutters clear of debris and water. Screen your attic vents. Keep screens on windows and doors in good repair and replace when needed.
- Call A Pro: If you suspect you have a rodent problem, call a professional pest control company or a professional wildlife removal company who can evaluate your home and provide you with a comprehensive treatment and exclusion plan.
Request a Free Wildlife Control Estimate
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Jul 26, 2019 | Wildlife
Most people may not consider birds when they think of pest control; bird removal does, however, fall into the category of wildlife exclusion. While typically benign to homeowners, birds can be detrimental to both homes and health. Birds can be quite noisy, especially if they build a nest in or on your home. They can cause damage to your roof, car, and property. Their nests can block stove, dryer, and fan vents causing fire hazards and rendering them useless. Their nests can also clog gutters and drains, leading to standing water and potential damage to your roof. Their droppings contain uric acid which can damage the paint on your car. Bird droppings also contain pathogens that are dangerous to humans like histoplasmosis. Bird nests can also contain other pests such as mites, parasites, and ticks that can stick around long after the birds have left the nest.
Birds have been known to build their nests in some very inconvenient places in and around homes. They are often found above doors, over garages, inside sheds, and other high-traffic areas. They can also nest in places that are dangerous to the birds themselves – on top of lawnmowers, heat pumps, etc.
While the decision to remove the bird nest may seem simple, there are Federal laws regarding bird nest removal that make it illegal to remove certain species of birds or their nests. Best practice is always to check with a wildlife control company before attempting to remove any bird nests from your home. If you have verified that the species of bird invading your property is not protected and removal of the nest is legal and necessary, here are some steps to take to ensure both proper and safe removal and/or relocation.
1. Prevention
The best way to eliminate bird nests from your property is to prevent them from building in the first place. Remove any food scraps and open trash from around your home as this invites them to feed. Make sure trash is secured tightly in containers. Place any bird feeders and birdbaths away from the home and further out in the yard. Only put out enough food for a few birds and clean up any spills regularly. Consider installing gutter guards to prevent nesting in gutters and downspouts. Vents are a common nesting place for birds so install vent covers and screens. Use perch repellents if necessary; these are rows of bird spikes installed on ledges, window sills, and around the perimeter of the roof to prevent birds from alighting on perches. You can also use visual repellents such as plastic owls, hawks, snakes, and even coyotes. If you use visual repellents, make sure to move them often as the birds will get used to them being in one place. Hang reflective bird diverters from strings on your porch also.
The best time to remove a nest is when it is still in the building stage. If you notice a bird nest already built or remove one this season, keep an eye out in the same area next season and stop it before it is fully completed.
2. Check for Activity
Always make sure a nest is inactive before removing or relocating it. Never attempt to remove or relocate a nest if there are birds or eggs present. It is best to wait until after nesting season for any removal or relocation. Eggs in a nest without signs of the parents don’t necessarily mean the nest has been abandoned. The parents may be out feeding or they may have left to allow the eggs a chance to cool down.
3. Wait For the End of Nesting Season
The best time to remove or relocate a nest is after nesting season is over. Most birds only nest once per year; however, some species will nest 4 to 5 times. The time varies with the species of bird. Without knowing the specific species of bird, it is difficult to determine the best time to remove or relocate the nest. A professional can help identify the species you are dealing with and help determine the best time to remove the nest.
4. Use Proper Precautions
Once you have positively identified the species of bird you have, confirmed it is legal to remove the nest, and have made sure the nest is inactive and no eggs are present, you can proceed with removing or relocating the nest. Bird nests can harbor other pests and residual bird droppings that can contain dangerous pathogens for humans. Make sure to wear long sleeves, long pants, latex gloves, and a respiratory mask to protect yourself. Carefully inspect the nest to make sure it is empty of eggs and birds. Spray the nest with an antibacterial spray. Once dry, remove the nest and dispose of it in a securely sealed container or exterior trash bag. Dispose of it in the trash away from the home. Clean the area where the nest was with a strong disinfectant. Remove and dispose of your gloves. Remove your clothing and wash them immediately in hot water. Wash your hands thoroughly.
5. Call A Professional
It can be difficult to determine whether or not the bird nest in or on your home is legal to remove or the best way to remove it. If you have a bird nest that is causing problems in or on your property, contact a professional wildlife exclusion company who can positively identify the species of bird you have, properly remove or dispose of the nest, and help you identify areas where nesting could be a potential issue in the future.
Request a Free Bird Control Estimate
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May 17, 2019 | Wildlife
While we most often think of wildlife being a problem in the winter months, these animals don’t just disappear when the weather gets warm. Wildlife can still be quite active in the summer, wreaking havoc on our homes and gardens. Whatever the time of year, preventing and controlling these nuisance pests is of the utmost importance, as they not only cause damage to homes and property, but can also pose significant health risks to both humans and pets. Wildlife prevention (also known as wildlife exclusion) is the first line of control against critters; however, once they have established themselves in or around your home, wildlife removal becomes a more necessary option. Let’s look at some common summer wildlife, as well as ways to exclude them from your home.
Snakes
Snakes are cold-blooded animals that require heat and sunlight for energy. They are more active in the summer months because they require more energy for mating. Too much exposure can overheat them so snakes are typically more active in the early morning and late evenings or at night in the summertime. They will also seek out shelter during the hottest parts of the day in cool, dark places like underneath rocks and decks or in basements. Snakes will choose where they live based on the availability of food, shelter, and shade.
To prevent snakes this summer:
- Clear away yard clutter, piles of leaves, and wood.
- Keep your grass mowed short to eliminate coverage.
- Trim bushes and hedges regularly.
- Make sure birdseed doesn’t fall on the ground and clean it up if it does.
- Block access to any potential hibernation areas.
- Walk the perimeter of your home and seal, cover, or repair any crack or crevice that is greater than 1/4″.
- Check your garage, garage doors, windows, and exterior doors for gaps and seal them.
- Seal any gaps around water pipes, electrical lines, sump pumps, and other spots that utilities enter your home.
- Ventilate crawlspaces and repair leaky faucets and pipes as these attract pests which, in turn, attract snakes.
Bats
While bats are scary to many people, they are actually quite beneficial at keeping insect populations down. In the southern United States, many bat species are active year-round. Bats enter homes through openings. They can cause damage in homes by ruining insulation, causing structural damage when their urine soaks through to sheet rock or particle board, and their urine and feces causing health concerns for occupants of the home. Bats also carry serious diseases such as rabies, with 1 to 3 cases of bat transmitted rabies occurring each year. Bats are nocturnal and emerge at dusk in search of food. Female bats search for summer roosts where they stay until they have their young. For this reason, unless there is a threat to public health, eviction or exclusion of bats should not take place between April and August. Colonies will disband in late summer as bats leave for their winter roosts.
To prevent bats in the summer:
- If you have a bat in your home, locate any openings leading to living spaces in your home from attics, garages, walls, etc and seal them off.
- Close all doors to the room where the bat is and open all windows and exterior doors to allow the bat to escape.
- Inspect and caulk any openings on the exterior of your home that are larger than 1/4″.
- Use window screens, chimney caps, and screen vents.
- Fill any electrical and plumbing holes with steel wool or caulk.
- If you find an entry point, cover it with plastic sheeting or bird netting and then once all the bats are gone, seal it off completely.
- Professional removal is recommended. Professional wildlife pest control will:
- Assess any entry points.
- Install one-way systems to allow bats to exit but not return.
- Seal any entry points.
- Clear, decontaminate, and deodorize the affected area.
Armadillos
Armadillos mate in the fall, with their young born in the spring, making them very active in the summer months. They prefer habitats near streams or other water sources with sandy or clay soil. They are often found in forests, woodlands, prairies, salt marshes, coastal dunes, pastures, cemeteries, parks, golf courses, and crop lands. They love to nest in rock piles, around trees and shrubs, and under rock slabs. Armadillos dig burrows that can be up to 25 feet long, which can significantly damage tree roots. These burrows can also cause flooding if they are dug around crawlspaces, patios, or walkways. Armadillos have poorly developed teeth and limited mobility. they have poor eyesight but a keen sense of smell. They have very few natural predators. They are strong diggers which they rely on to find shelter and food and causing most of the damage around your home and property. Armadillos will eat fruit (especially from gardens and compost piles), grubs, worms, beetles, wasps, ants, millipedes, centipedes, and snails.
To prevent armadillos in the summer:
- Eliminate food sources by getting rid of insects around your home.
- Clean up any rotten fruit that may fall to the ground.
- Maintain proper landscaping by keeping grass mowed and shrubs and trees trimmed.
- Install sturdy fencing that goes at least 1 foot into the ground and at a slight angle.
- Eliminate any areas of excess moisture in your yard as this leads to more grubs and worms.
- Set traps and relocate the armadillos.
Opossums
Opossum females are laden with their young in the summer months, making them more active in their search for food. Opossums are found throughout the United States. They live in trees and will stay in them as much as possible. They also prefer wet areas like marshes and swamps. Opossums are nocturnal and will forage for food at night. They are beneficial in they eat harmful and unwanted pests around your home. They prefer to eat snails, slugs, spiders, cockroaches, rats, mice and snakes. They will also eat nuts, grass, fruit, roadkill, and garbage. They are rarely aggressive and will play dead when they feel threatened.
To prevent opossums this summer:
- Don’t leave pet food or water out overnight.
- Don’t leave garage doors, pet doors, or unscreened windows open at night.
- Pick up any fruit that has fallen from trees.
- Cover garbage cans at night.
- Clear out any dense bushes, shrubbery, or woodpiles.
- Keep swimming pools and hot tubs covered at night.
- Keep trees and shrubbery trimmed away from fences.
Raccoons
Raccoons are highly intelligent and curious animals. They typically give birth to their young in April and May, making them very active in the summer months. They are found throughout the United States. They prefer to live in heavily wooded areas with access to trees, water, and vegetation. They are extremely adaptable, however, and will make their homes in attics, sewers, barns, and sheds. They are dexterous, capable of opening doors, jars, bottles, and latches. They are known to carry several bacterial diseases. Raccoons are nocturnal animals, searching for food at night. They will eat almost anything including birds, eggs, fish, shellfish, frogs, fruit, insects, nuts, seeds, and even snakes. They are known to destroy gardens, tip over garbage cans, and cause structural damage in their quest for food.
To prevent raccoons this summer:
- Secure trash can lids, especially at night.
- Double bag any trash that contains meat.
- Remove brush and keep shrubbery trimmed.
- Keep grass mowed short.
- Seal any entry points to chimneys, eaves, and attics.
- Install motion detecting sprinklers or strobe lights.
- Remove any fallen fruit from trees.
- Bring bird feeders and pet food in at night.
- Seal pet doors at night.
Rats
Rats are active year-round. The summer provides them with ample sources of food making them very active. They are also busy making burrows and storing food in preparation for the winter. Rats can reproduce very quickly so control and elimination can be extremely difficult. They are excellent climbers and are well adapted to living in human environments. Rats can contaminate food, cause fire hazards by chewing through wires, and their urine and feces can cause serious health concerns.
To prevent rats this summer:
- Fill or seal any cracks, crevices, and holes found in foundations or siding.
- Install chimney caps and cover vents with screens.
- Replace any torn screens on windows and doors.
- Remove clutter from garages and storage areas.
- Try to use plastic storage bins versus cardboard boxes.
- Store firewood away from your home.
- Remove bird feeders and pet food at night.
- Keep food and pet food stored in airtight containers.
- Use trash cans with lids.
- Keep your kitchen clean from crumbs and spills.
- Empty the trash regularly.
Prevention is always a good first step at keeping wildlife away. Once you have a wildlife issue, however, prevention usually needs to shift to removal and exclusion. Consider contacting a professional wildlife control company who can assess your wildlife issue and provide you with the safest and most appropriate treatment and prevention options.
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Apr 26, 2019 | Pest Control, Wildlife
By Anna V., Editorial Lead — Pest Education · Last updated: April 2026
When a snake shows up in your yard or near the foundation, the instinct is almost always the same: go to Google and search for something to make it go away. Mothballs. Garlic. Essential oils. Ultrasonic stakes. At Northwest, we get asked about home remedies to keep snakes away almost every warm-weather day, and here’s the honest version most homeowners don’t hear: the vast majority of DIY snake remedies don’t work, and a few are actually illegal or dangerous. What does work is nearly always free, already in your toolshed, and takes a Saturday morning.
This guide walks through the most common home remedies for keeping snakes away, which ones have any real science behind them, which ones are outright myths, and what’s actually effective in a Georgia or Alabama yard. We’ll also cover where snakes go in cold weather (the question we get every fall) and how to quickly tell a harmless snake from one that needs a pro.
Why Snakes Come Into Residential Properties
Before you can keep snakes away, it helps to know why they showed up. Snakes don’t pick yards at random. They follow food, shelter, and water, in that order.
- Food: Rodents, frogs, lizards, and large insects. If you have a mouse problem in the crawl space or under the deck, you’ll eventually have a snake problem.
- Shelter: Wood piles, rock piles, thick mulch beds, tall grass, debris along the fence line, untrimmed shrubs touching the foundation.
- Water: Standing puddles, dripping outdoor faucets, leaky AC condensate lines, overwatered flower beds, low spots in the lawn.
- Easy access: Gaps around dryer vents, foundation cracks, torn crawl-space screens, missing weatherstripping on garage doors.
Remove those four things and snake activity drops fast, with or without a single bottle of repellent.
Common Home Remedies to Keep Snakes Away: What the Evidence Actually Says
Here’s how the most-searched home remedies stack up in the research and in the field.
Home remedies fall into three buckets: works, doesn’t work, and actively unsafe.
Mothballs
Mothballs are the single most common home remedy we hear about, and the single worst one. Their active ingredients (naphthalene or paradichlorobenzene) are registered pesticides with very specific label instructions that limit use to closed containers indoors for clothing moths. Scattering mothballs outdoors to keep snakes away is against federal label law per the EPA. They’re also toxic to pets, kids, and wildlife, and contaminate soil and groundwater. On top of all that, the research shows they don’t actually repel snakes. This is a “worse than useless” remedy: it creates real health risk while producing no benefit.
Ammonia-Soaked Rags
Ammonia is another scent-based remedy that circulates online. In practice, the vapor dissipates within a day, the first rain washes it out completely, and ammonia kills surrounding grass and plants. Snakes route around treated spots if anything, but don’t avoid the yard. Skip it.
Garlic, Onions, and Cinnamon Oil
These show up in almost every online list of home remedies for snakes. The idea is that strong botanical scents overwhelm a snake’s chemical-sensing system. The science is thin. Snakes navigate primarily via the Jacobson’s organ on the roof of their mouth, which processes airborne chemicals very differently than a mammal’s nose. A snake hunting a mouse isn’t going to be turned back by a border of onions. These remedies can provide a very short-term deterrent effect at best, and only at high concentrations close to the application point.
Essential Oil Sprays
Cedarwood, clove, peppermint, and cinnamon oil sprays are the “natural” version of a commercial snake repellent. At close range and high concentration, they may nudge a snake off a specific path for a few hours. They evaporate fast in summer heat, wash out with the first rain, and do nothing to address the reason the snake came. Use them as a short-term spot treatment if you’re so inclined, but never as a standalone plan.
Sulfur-Based Products
Granular sulfur products marketed as snake repellents have mixed evidence at best. Some studies suggest minor avoidance behavior; most show no meaningful effect. Sulfur can also irritate pets’ paws and contribute to an unpleasant smell around the yard. Not unsafe, but not reliable either.
Ultrasonic and Vibration Stakes
The marketing on these is aggressive, the research is not. Snakes don’t hear airborne sound the way mammals do. They sense low-frequency vibration through the ground. Solar-powered ultrasonic stakes emit sound waves that snakes mostly ignore. Independent testing has not shown a consistent repellent effect.
Fake Owl Decoys, Snake Decoys, and Rope Circles
Plastic owls might fool a few snakes for a week. Decoy king snakes might deter a copperhead momentarily. A rope laid in a circle around your tent (a long-running outdoor myth) does nothing. Snakes adapt fast to anything that doesn’t move. Skip.
What Actually Works to Keep Snakes Away
Almost without exception, the effective ways to keep snakes away are free. They’re not remedies, they’re habits.
- Habitat modification. Short grass, clear fence lines, no wood or rock piles within 20 feet of the house, mulch beds kept thin and tidy.
- Rodent control. Get mice under control and snake activity drops sharply. Snakes follow their food. Professional rodent control is the single highest-impact change most homes can make for long-term snake prevention.
- Exclusion. Seal every gap in the foundation, around utility penetrations, at crawl-space vents, and under garage side doors. Use ¼-inch galvanized hardware cloth. Expanding foam alone won’t hold up.
- Moisture control. Fix leaky faucets, redirect gutter runoff, don’t over-irrigate. Dry yards are less attractive to snakes and the prey they eat.
We covered the detailed seven-method playbook in our Snake Repellent: Natural & Effective Ways to Keep Snakes Away article. This post stays focused on the myth-busting side.
Snakes don’t leave for winter. They shelter in piles, burrows, and crawl spaces and emerge on warm days.
Where Do Snakes Go in Cold Weather?
One of the most common questions we get in October and November is whether snakes “leave for the winter” in Georgia and Alabama. They don’t, not exactly. Snakes are cold-blooded, so when temperatures drop they enter a state called brumation, which is similar to hibernation but not identical. They don’t sleep through winter; they slow way down and shelter in protected, insulated spots.
In the Southeast, those spots are often:
- Rock piles, wood piles, and dense leaf litter
- Abandoned rodent burrows (which is why a mouse problem in October becomes a snake problem in March)
- Crawl spaces and basement crevices, especially homes without sealed vents or where screen is torn
- Gaps under concrete porches, sheds, and slab additions
- Root balls, tree hollows, and stump cavities
Warm winter afternoons in the South will often bring snakes out briefly to bask, even in January. If you see a snake on a 65-degree February day, it hasn’t “woken up early.” It’s just thermoregulating. The bigger story is where it’s spending the rest of the season, because that shelter spot is almost certainly on or under your property.
What Kind of Snake Is That? A Quick Southeast Field Guide
Most snake sightings in Georgia and Alabama yards turn out to be non-venomous species. Knowing what you’re looking at dramatically changes how much action is needed.
- Eastern Rat Snake (Black Rat Snake), non-venomous. Long, black, strong climber. Often found in attics and shrubs hunting rodents. One of the best natural rodent controls you can have on a property.
- Black Racer, non-venomous. Slender, fast, solid jet-black. Harmless. Feeds on insects, lizards, and small rodents.
- Garter Snake, non-venomous. Small, striped, common near gardens, water features, and rock edges.
- Kingsnake, non-venomous. Black with pale bands. Notable because it actually eats venomous snakes. Leave it alone if you can.
- Copperhead, venomous. Tan body, dark hourglass banding. Hides in pine straw and leaf litter, which makes it the cause of most venomous bites in the Southeast. If you see one, back up and call.
- Cottonmouth / Water Moccasin, venomous. Thick-bodied, found in or near water. Will stand its ground rather than retreat. Call a pro.
- Timber Rattlesnake, venomous. Less common in suburban yards, more common in wooded lots, rural properties, and at elevation. Distinctive rattle, heavy body.
When in doubt, the UGA Extension guide to Snakes of Georgia is the best free identification resource for the region.
When Home Remedies Aren’t Enough
DIY approaches top out fast. Here’s when to stop experimenting and call a professional:
- You’ve confirmed or suspect a venomous species on the property.
- A snake has been inside the house, garage, crawl space, or attic. Inside means an entry point that needs finding and sealing, not a remedy.
- You’re seeing snakes repeatedly in the same spot. More than two sightings in the same part of the yard within a season means there’s harborage or a food source you haven’t found.
- There are kids, pets, or people with limited mobility on the property. The cost-benefit of a professional inspection shifts the moment safety tolerance drops.
(Not sure if it’s time to call? Request a free Northwest inspection and we’ll walk the yard with you, identify what you saw, and lay out what’s worth doing.)
Professional Snake Control & Prevention
Northwest’s wildlife team handles the full snake-control workflow: identification, safe and humane removal, sealing the entry points that let snakes in, and treating the underlying rodent or moisture issue that drew them in the first place. Most of what we do isn’t catching snakes. It’s removing the reason snakes keep showing up. That’s the difference between a one-time removal that repeats next season and a long-term solution.
Frequently Asked Questions About Keeping Snakes Away
Do snake repellents really work?
Most commercial and home-remedy snake repellents offer limited, short-term effects at best. The most reliable way to keep snakes away is removing what attracts them in the first place: rodents, hiding places, standing water, and gaps in the home’s perimeter.
What smells keep snakes away?
Snakes show some sensitivity to strong scents like cinnamon, clove, and cedarwood, but these smells don’t stop a snake tracking prey. Treat scent-based remedies as supplemental at best and never as a standalone plan.
Are snakes dangerous to pets?
Most snakes you’ll encounter in a Southeast yard are non-venomous and not a threat to pets. Copperheads, cottonmouths, and rattlesnakes are the three venomous species most likely to injure a dog or cat. If your pet is bitten, assume venomous until proven otherwise and go straight to a vet.
Should I try to remove a snake myself?
No, not if you can’t confidently identify it as non-venomous, and not if it’s inside the home. Non-venomous snakes in the yard can usually be left alone or gently encouraged to move on by turning on a sprinkler. Anything else is a job for a pro.
Do mothballs really keep snakes away?
No. Mothballs are not an effective snake repellent and are illegal to use outdoors for that purpose under federal pesticide law. They’re also toxic to pets, kids, and the environment. Skip them entirely.
When home remedies stop working, it’s time to address the rodent or moisture issue feeding the problem.
Ready to Actually Keep Snakes Away?
If you’ve tried a home remedy or two and the snakes keep coming back, the problem isn’t the remedy. It’s the yard. Northwest has been solving snake problems in Georgia, Alabama, Tennessee, and South Carolina homes for over 70 years, and we solve them by addressing the cause, not just the sighting.
About the Author
Anna V., Editorial Lead — Pest Education leads pest education content for Northwest Exterminating, working with senior technicians and service center managers across our Georgia, Alabama, Tennessee, and South Carolina service areas to translate field expertise into homeowner-friendly guides. The focus: accurate, regionally-specific answers to the pest questions Southeast homeowners are actually searching for.
